Deltoid Force  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Stuart Ruckman & Gary Olsen, 1986 Submitted By:  John Steiger on Sep 22, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The route starts with a V2/V3 overhanging boulder problem past a bolt next to a fixed pin, and then climbs 5.9 face near the edge of a buttress (great position) to the stance. The belay is a rusted quarter-inch bolt with an old-style SMC hanger, fixed blade, and fixed nut, all tied together with slings. Someone with energy should remove the first fixed pin (the bolt next to it is bomber) and replace the stance with bolts and chains (may want to consider moving the stance to the top of the buttress). It is possible to avoid the boulder problem by starting higher in the gully to the right of the line and traversing left; this likely would make a two-star 5.9.

Location 

See Ruckmans' guide.

Protection 

In addition to draws, small to mid-size cams and a small assortment of nuts. Rap from stance.