2.5 stars. The sort of obscure pleaure that makes the ORG worth repeat visits.
Up an easy dihedral, passing two bolts, to a roof. Traverse L under the roof, slabby, awkward and, I thought, cruxy, and pull up onto a ledge at the base of a short, hanging face. Pull past the face which feels unaccountably exposed and gain a ramp which is followed easily to steeper and harder climbing at the end.
We were able to just barely lower the leader off with a 60 meter rope. If you try this, be very careful since the belayer may have to climb up the route for a few feet to get the leader to the ground. The route leans/traverses a fair amount and would be difficult to clean on lower, esp. w/ a 60 M rope.
In a left facing corner capped by a roof after 20', just left of Too Proud To Ignore.
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I felt there were two distinct cruxes. The lower crux was definitely making my way under the roof at the beginning which I thought was harder than the upper crux. Great route.