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Huong smiling at the slabby roof section!
Last year alone, Access Fund preserved access to 179 areas and opened 7 closed climbing areas. Join or give and MP will match!
2.5 stars. The sort of obscure pleaure that makes the ORG worth repeat visits.
Up an easy dihedral, passing two bolts, to a roof. Traverse L under the roof, slabby, awkward and, I thought, cruxy, and pull up onto a ledge at the base of a short, hanging face. Pull past the face which feels unaccountably exposed and gain a ramp which is followed easily to steeper and harder climbing at the end.
We were able to just barely lower the leader off with a 60 meter rope. If you try this, be very careful since the belayer may have to climb up the route for a few feet to get the leader to the ground. The route leans/traverses a fair amount and would be difficult to clean on lower, esp. w/ a 60 M rope.
In a left facing corner capped by a roof after 20', just left of Too Proud To Ignore.
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I felt there were two distinct cruxes. The lower crux was definitely making my way under the roof at the beginning which I thought was harder than the upper crux. Great route.