Deli Express  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 375 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Mark Sonnenfeld & Steve Hong Submitted By:  aschwartz on Jun 20, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Deli is three pitches on great rock with great protection, but what else would you expect being on the West Face. The first pitch is 5.10 with a balancy crux coming about mid way up (120 ft). The second pitch is an enduro finger crack with no real crux, no real rest, and is left foot killer (115 ft). The third pitch continues up a finger crack for about 30 ft until it dies, a couple of hard face moves bring you to a finger crack with jugs on the left face, great stances and great protection, place a piece and move to the face on good crimps for the last ten feet or so (90 ft). Hanging belays.

Location 

Rappel Route

Protection 

Great protection the whole way, a couple hand size pieces are good for the bottom, .4s and orange master cams are handy for the second and third pitch, as many number 5 thru 9 stoppers as you can carry, bolts at each anchor.