Delaney's Arete
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Brian Delaney, 1970s |
Page Views: | 2,600 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Rich Brereton on Nov 9, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
Traverse in from the right. Climb the arete to the top.
Bouldery start to a couple of footwork and balance intensive reaches. From about mid-2/3's height the difficulty decreases substantially.
Other guides say this climb starts on the left of the arete. This would involve a very hard move or two.
Protection
Horizontals for pro. Bolt anchor.
Unless you're quite bold, sussing the moves and gear on TR before leading is a good idea. On lead you'll have to climb through the hardest physical moves up to a height of 15-20ft without any pro over a very bad rocky landing. There is a helpful, but fairly blind placement once the climbing slabs out that may also be worth sussing. From about mid-height the climbing / gear options become fairly safe.
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