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|Park your car off of the main canyon road.|
A great sport route on the sunny side of tower 2 that starts on the eastern part of the flat area. Two big boulders and some pine trees give the belayer shade. Climb up a crack, putting a cool lieback in between the first and second bolts and continue up fun rock. At bolt number 8, angle towards the crack to your LEFT. Ignore the two bolts toward your right. I did this and found a dead end 20 feet below some other route's anchors. After having followed the correct crack straight up, pull over the bulge on some thin holds and side pulls; you will now see the chain anchors for the first time, slightly off to your right. Use at least a 60 meter rope. Have your belayer tie into the other end. A 60 meter rope will leave you and your belayer on your tip-toes to untie. A 59 meter rope will leave you one and a half feet short.
12 bolts and then a 2 chain anchor
Left of Insane in the Brain.
Sep 14, 2005
Fun route - makes a nice warmup for Medussa and going into the cave.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 18, 2006
This is a really fun route as is the newer one to the right of it. Anyone now the name of that one? I'd say its about the same grade.
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 26, 2007
Whiskey and Weed Power, 5.11a***
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Jun 17, 2007
good route, short crux, felt easy for the grade. There are 3 routes on the wall, deja vu is on the left, an .11b/c in the middle, .11b on the right (if deja vu is .11a, the right hand route is 11b, I'd say). Get Greg's topo at IME for all the new routes in the area, they've done a lot! The middle route is also really good, and even pumpier than the other two. Still loose rock on deja vu, I knocked a big one off with my foot without even realizing it, and I'm usually pretty careful on the hellgate stuff. Hopefully that was the last of it, since the whole route seemed to have good rock.
|By Jerome Sharpe|
From: Wanship, UT
Aug 14, 2011
To clarify: From left to right:
Insane in the Brian, 5.11b/c
Whiskey and Weed Power, 5.11b
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 6, 2011
A .75 camalot is useful before the 1st bolt