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Routes in The Wicked Cave
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Bad Girls Club S 5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b |
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Crew, The S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Cry Baby S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cryptic Egyptian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Deity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Double Rainbows S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Entrance Exam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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F. U. C. K. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Get Shorty S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Goon, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Hippy Speedball S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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La Cucaracha S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Magnetar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Missing Link (now the start of Never Enough) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Never Enough S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Piece of Cake S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Piece of Zulu S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Planet Garbage S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Planet X S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Quick Tick Egyptian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sexy Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shades S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Single Rainbow S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Skyline Fire Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slice of Life S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Tombraider S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Zulu S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Kurt Smith |
| Page Views: | 2,174 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Oct 8, 2015 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This 1/2 route variation to "Get Shorty" makes for a worthy 13a if you're looking for big pulls on relatively good holds through steep rock.
Start off with a short boulder problem to easier climbing through good holds and marginal rock for a few bolts. Continue up with big pulls between good holds with ever increasing difficulty to the crux. Pull a few powerful moves, and reach jugs to clip the anchor. If you want 13b credit, continue up through cobwebs and some blocks that look like they are held on by cobwebs to finish below the roof, without any anchors.
This would probably deserve 3 stars if the rock were a bit better, a bit less damp, a bit more natural, and a bit less glue. However, despite all that, the climbing is quite fun.
Start off with a short boulder problem to easier climbing through good holds and marginal rock for a few bolts. Continue up with big pulls between good holds with ever increasing difficulty to the crux. Pull a few powerful moves, and reach jugs to clip the anchor. If you want 13b credit, continue up through cobwebs and some blocks that look like they are held on by cobwebs to finish below the roof, without any anchors.
This would probably deserve 3 stars if the rock were a bit better, a bit less damp, a bit more natural, and a bit less glue. However, despite all that, the climbing is quite fun.
Location
This climbs the first half of "Get Shorty". There is a red-tagged project to the left and "Planet X" is to the right.
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