Defrocked Direct Start
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | Dave DesChamps'96 |
Page Views: | 1,383 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on May 15, 2006 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This is a fun offwidth, chimney, hand crack. The first 15 feet are the crux then it gradually gets easier. The R section is quite a bit easier but you don't want to fall. Move right at top of crack then a thin 5.8R move gets you into an easy chimney. A long sling for a chockstone or #5 Camalot would allow you to get pro in the back. According to Dave the 2 pitch direct start 1) climbs up to a good ledge and belays. 2) Follows a crack up and right and belays above an oak tree in the major weakness. This is where it joins the route Defrocked. Defrocked starts to the left of Coati Corner and in two pitches heads past this second oak and belays. It then continues up somehow and crosses Warpaint using the first bolt on the fourth pitch to traverse all the way left to the major corner system which is then climbed in two pitches to the anchors at the top of Warpaint. Hope Dave will put this and his other routes on Mountain Project so people can repeat them or not mistakenly drill them up
Photos
- No Photos -
0 Comments