Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Grain Surgery Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Decompensator of Lhasa, The 
Deflowered 
Fist Full of Crystals 
Grain Surgery 
Hoopharkz 
Phineas P. Phart 
Super Monster Killer 

Deflowered 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Don O'Kelley & Dave Davis, October 1971
Page Views: 2,278
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on May 16, 2003
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Holly Sherwin climbs Deflowered in Steve Canyon.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Deflowered offers a nice range of crack widths and styles over its length, starting with shallow, flaring twin cracks at the bottom before moving into a nice wide chimney, then a lieback flake, and finally a bit of steep, bouldery fist/OW to the finishing jugs. It's a fun climb in a location that has a really short, easy approach, yet doesn't have a lot of the traffic of the climbs closer to Hidden Valley. Not a showstopper, but definitely fun if you're in the area (and aren't you more or less always in the area?)

Vogel rates this climb a 5.6 -- if so, it's the hardest 5.6 I've climbed at JT. Feels like a good solid 5.7 in my book.

As you enter Steve Canyon from the direction of Hidden Valley CG, Deflowered will be on the right side, about two-thirds of the way up -- on the opposite side of the canyon from Super Roof (Vogel describes this section of Steve Canyon as "Upper East Side (West Face)"). Look for a large chimney that splits the face (5.4); Deflowered takes the slightly narrower crack that starts about 10 feet to the right (down-canyon). Start on top of a large block.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3" plus a few slings to reduce rope drag -- the route is straight up and down, but some pieces will have to be placed deep within alcoves and chimneys.



Photos of Deflowered Slideshow Add Photo
Completely not at ease.
Completely not at ease.
Deflowered Wall-"Deflowered" follows the wide crack to the right of the big chimney. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Deflowered Wall-"Deflowered" follows the wide crac...
Getting out of the awkward chimney section and into the great hand crack steep finish to the jugs
Getting out of the awkward chimney section and int...
Emily  near the start.
Emily near the start.
Holly passes the wide, offwidthy crux of Deflowered and gains one of several finishing jugs.
Holly passes the wide, offwidthy crux of Deflowere...
Emily moving out of the chimney section.  Pretty secure.  Just run it out.
Emily moving out of the chimney section. Pretty s...
Romain Wacziarg near the crux of Deflowered, in Steve Canyon, Joshua Tree National Park.
Romain Wacziarg near the crux of Deflowered, in St...
Comments on Deflowered Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 8, 2011
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Mar 3, 2004

I led this on a very hot May day about seven years ago.Maybe it was the heat, but I thought it was pretty stiff for 5.6

By Ryan Avery
Jan 26, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

This odd climb is made fun by starting in the cave below the usual starting blcok. Adds a bit of caving expereince to the whole thing and an otherwise interesting climb.

Not for new leaders for sure.

By Woody Stark
Jan 27, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I climbed this route quite a few years ago. Both my partner and I found it harder than six plus a little odd in a way I can't remember. I might go back just to see why it sticks in my mind; however, I don't think the reason is positive.

By Mike Hack
Jan 28, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I climbed this route several years ago and remember not liking it much. I recall thinking it felt off-widthy, awkward and generally unpleasant. But it probably didn't help that my partner (mostly a gym climber at the time) decided not to follow, so I got to pull my own awkward gear on rap . . .

By vincent L.
Mar 12, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

5.7 for sure. i tried to chimney the route instead of going deep into the crack , big mistake as the chimney just flares and gets wider as you go higher. "Deflowered" is the perfecr name for this route as i felt i had been dealt the sandbag of a lifetime but then pulled through it with techniques i didn't know i possesed. an awesome route , awkward , painful, scary , FUN .

4 out of 5 stars

By Darren D.
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This one has an old-school feel to it. And I'm not old-school. But I liked in none the less. It might be 5.6 if you do it right. Rap rings to climbers left.

By Mar' Himmerich
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 26, 2008

It was my 1st climb in JTree, with my first REAL climbing partner, Karl Kock (who eventually created the "Hardman" comic strip for "Climbing Magazine" 25 years ago).

It was supposed to be a 5.6, so we believed it. I wouldn't have known the difference, back then in 1980.

By Paul Demers
Nov 16, 2008

Instead of "Deflowered," I think a more descriptive name would be "Sold into Slavery and Gang Raped." The climb was heinous! Way harder than Suicide Rock's "The Plague 5-8" but a little less strenuous than "Flake Out's 5-7" unprotectable, skin-tearing chimney. The first 15 feet were an easy scramble followed by a nasty flaring chimney taking small cams way in the back. Upon squeezing upwards to right sided handholds, one climbs up and around a small flake then into another nastier chimney section and vertical flaring crack. The last 25 feet I managed to hold myself in place by squeezing a leg into the crack and awkwardly arm barring my way forward while sinking two #3 blue Camelots ahead of the mantel finish. Don't do this one without health insurance and anticipate the need for skin grafting and knee surgery! Two thumbs down.

By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 30, 2009

Come on about the horror stories. This was my first lead in the (then) Monument. 14, tennis shoes, about six stoppers and hexes. Felt hard at the time, but I remember the variety of the climbing and savoring the summit. A good route, but it's trad. Plan accordingly.

By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I've caught 2 leader falls on this route: not for the new 5.6 leader. A classic Josh 5.6

By mark felber
From: Frisco, CO,USA
Apr 8, 2011

Definitely not 5.6, solid 5.7 and getting good pro can be a little tricky.