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Dead Tree Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Grace T,TR 
CMC Lives, The TR 
Dead Tree Crack T,TR 
Defeat of the DLFA Boys TR 
Dr. Who T 
Fecal Maneuvers In the Dark T,TR 
Tardis T,TR 

Defeat of the DLFA Boys 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 649
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Sep 3, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The start.

Description 

Tricky face climbing.

Location 

Climb a shallow dihedral and tight seam 5 ft left of Dead Tree climb. Angle left towards right side of large overhang past a small shrub on the wall.

Protection 

TR, might make a good headpoint.


Comments on Defeat of the DLFA Boys Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Sep 3, 2010

Is the right corner on?
By Alex A
Sep 6, 2010

These was Originally called The Defeat of the DLFA Boys,
Swartling changed the name to be more PC, FA. Alex A, Pete C, AKA old school,

Nick it can be climbed both ways, but using the corner at one spot is Easier, the 1st time did not use the corner, 2nd time used corner, 5.12 vs 5.11, so yes the corner is in for the 5.11,
By Tradoholic
Sep 6, 2010

Ha! I will have to honor that name then. Agreed 5.12 w/o the corner.
By Alex A
Sep 10, 2010

Nick, I think you got the 2nd ascent, with out the corner, to my knowledge no one has done it, but us, that way, that's why it was rated 5.11 vs 5.12
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 10, 2010

Great little sloper (right hand- three finger pads only and sloping) at the crux of this route. I found a way to push upwards with the left arm (palm) so that it is easier to let go with the right and extend for the sloper. Tighten that right hand on the sloper, carefully bring the feet up and then match along side on the sloper with the left as well. Try and stay sticking to the sloper while you work the feet up again and can make desperate fire above to better holds. I can't remember wich hand your reach above with.... If I remember right the feet stay skimpy until well above..
By bill mcchesney
Mar 21, 2013

Defeat? With a TOP ROPE? I think NOT.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Apr 3, 2013

The route name suggests a level of childishness almost akin to the DLFA, note I said "almost". It should be noted that Pete C. never had a problem with us. he mentored us,watched us become young strong climbers ,he enjoyed climbing with us and hanging out and partying with us. He even would let us hang at his house and get jacked and bivy and puke all over his yard. As for Mr. Toproper,s(aka Alex A.)animosity towards the Dlfa one can only surmise that it was based on jealousy of our good looks,girlfriends and our ability to climb circles around him on top-rope and definitly climb circles around Mr.top-roper on lead all while we were totally jacked!!! Did I mention that we might have been obnoxious to boot. Peace and Fuk-nes Steve S.
By salisbur1
From: Boulder
Jun 2, 2013

I don't know.. personally I think it should be named "I'm Standing on the Shoulders of the DLFA Giants". But it's a crazy world out there, and if Pete was helping ya out, then god bless ya. But for it to be a truly ordained and Bona fide burial, afterward you should have swilled ta ya puked. I mean, you have to join them for a bit before you can really bury 'em, and I take it you didn't do that...

-ds
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jun 4, 2013

Very clever insight by my esteemed college Hammercase Sloshbury aka Duke O puke or "one who walks with Fuk-nes". How many martinis did it take to come up with that one? Oh,my bad you switch to margaritas for the summer for the health benefits of the lime.
Let me get this straight...Mr. Toproper after conquering the 5.11c or 5.12a 50ft toprope ( lord knows we couldnt climb that hard) and "slaying the dragon" (dlfa) he failed to partake in the ritual of consuming the "blood" of the beast in celebration. Or how can I put this delicately....He failed to get jack-fuked (totally wasted) and dance in the flames of fuk-nes.
Did I forget to mention "spewing"? Remember we were talking about me not remembering! Remember? For us the "ritual" after slaying a "dragon" goes without saying. Ifn yer gonna talk the talk better be able to walk the walk. Sorry for the spew. Peace and fuk-nes Steve S. the really old school.