||Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Josh Gross and Lynn Sanson|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring/Fall or Summer afternoons, east facing wall|
|Page Views: ||1,819|
|Submitted By: ||Lynn S on Sep 5, 2009|
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DEFCON 1 is an excellent addition to the Grizzly Wall. Its name stems from the incoming missiles that were raining down on us while putting up the route. The wind was whipping through the canyon and apparently blowing golf ball sized rocks off the rim. These proceeded to whiz by our heads at an alarming rate of velocity, hence we were at DEFCON 1 for most of the day.
Pitch 1 (.10a/b, 80 feet, 5 bolts and yellow Alien) - climb past 3 visible bolts, move right at the 3rd bolt on a nice rail, then up and left to a 4th bolt, move gingerly past a hollow flake (bolt), more up and left past a 5th bolt, a yellow Alien in a horizontal and up to a two bolt belay.
Pitch 1a, new variation (recommended start) (.10b 5 bolts and gear) The variation begins about 20 feet left of the original. Climb past two bolts while staying left of a small dirty corner. Continue up past 3 more bolts, a #3 camalot and yellow tcu placement and one final bolt to the anchor. 70 feet and still needs some cleaning. Ends at the same anchor as the original pitch 1.
Pitch 2 (.11c/d, 65 feet, 4 or 5 bolts, purple Camalot) - climb off the ledge, place a purple camalot and then start the business of the pitch. Move right at the cam placement and then up and back left to the first of 3 bolts. Crux is moving between the 2nd and 3rd of these bolts. After the crux, move up and left (bolt) to an obvious ledge. Either mantle directly (awkward) or reach straight up into a small R-facing corner with a hidden pocket, step up and then left onto the ledge, 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 (.10, 105 feet, blue Alien to blue Camalot, you could double up gray camalot to yellow camalot) - Stellar trad climbing on bullet quartzite, bomber cam placements in the horizontals, this pitch is all gear to the anchor. The pitch trends up and left to start and then breaks right to a mini 2 foot left-facing corner, this has a small bush in residence. From that point you move back left on good horizontals and fire up to a shallow, right-facing corner, also home to some vegetation. The anchor is just above this feature.
By following the path of least resistance you should be able to keep the grade at 10. As you look up from the pitch 2 belay you will see some bushes to your left, this is what you are aiming for.
For the grade this pitch is money; steep, moderate, great gear, does it get any better? There are two anchors, the lower is best used when you rap to the ground, the upper (8 feet higher) is preferred for belaying pitch 4.
Pitch 4 (.10+ PG-13, 80 feet, bolts, small gear to yellow Camalot) This pitch has a tricky start, the holds are there, move up and then right to a great horizontal, #2 Camalot size, then by 3 or 4 bolts (one is a 1/4 rivet with hanger, FA leading shenanigans piece), to an obvious overlap, traverse left under this, eventually make a couple of moves off its left edge up great stone leftward past a couple more bolts to a final mantle up to the anchor. This pitch is on excellent stone. The anchor ledge is cleaning up well, but be prepared for some choss as you make the final mantle.
The PG-13 rating comes from needing to be aware of limited placements on the first 20 feet of this pitch. They are there and bomber, just not as abundant as on pitch 3, keep your eyes open.
Single rope rap from the top of pitch 4 back to the top of pitch 3 or just lower the leader to the ledge and belay the second on a TR, lowering biners on the p.4 anchor. Use the lower anchor on p.3 to rap on two 60m ropes to the ground. It is a full 200 feet to the ground from the top of pitch 3.
This route was done ground up.
Do the standard Grizzly Wall approach and as the trail comes close to the wall you should see the bolts. Route is located about 30 yards left of Orangina
Bolts, yellow Alien through yellow Camalot (blue optional), depending on your comfort level you may want doubles 0.5 and up. Gear placements are in horizontals for the most part. 12 draws/runners should be sufficient.
Bo on pitch 3, hunting for the horizontal gear pla...
BETA PHOTO: General route location, two bolt anchors at each b...
Bo starting up the crux pitch 2.
Josh Gross, following pitch one.
BETA PHOTO: Defcon Area: Routes - Pink = Defcon 1, Black = Def...
Lynn S on the excellent pitch 3.
Lynn cranking the 1st pitch of Defcon 1.
Moving past the crux moves.
Amos Whiting seconding pitch 2.
Lynn seconding the 4th pitch.
By Lynn S
Sep 11, 2009
The route is cleaning up nicely, quality climbing on each pitch. The climbing gets better as you go up, the rock on pitches 3 and 4 is excellent quartzite. Just a couple of 5.11 moves, the rest is in the 5.10 range.
Be prepared for placing cams in horizontals, especially on pitch 3.
By tom bohanon
Oct 8, 2009
This is a great route, and definitely deserves 3 stars. It is already pretty clean (compared to Mud Flap Girl), with good bolts and plenty of them on the 1st and 2nd pitches, comfy belay stances, and great climbing. It's easy to pull through the 5.11 crux on pitch 2 if needed. The 3rd pitch is all gear. We had doubles from a #2 (yellow) BD C3 to a #2 (gold) BD C4, and I used most of them. We forgot to take a #3 (blue) BD C4, and although there were places for it, I never really felt I had to have one. We took stoppers, but never found a single placement on any of the pitches, so they can safely be left behind I think. The third pitch wanders around a fair bit, so have some long slings to keep the rope drag down (or don't put in as much gear as me). The key is to head L off the belay, then back R up steep rock, working towards and into to the very shallow L facing corner with some grass in it that Lynn mentions in the description. You need to get on top of this corner, where there is a small bush, then angle back L on a decent ledge to get the the final right facing corner with another small bush at the top where the 2 belays are located. It's exciting climbing cuz you never quite know which horizontal is going to have decent gear, but its all there, and quite safe. From the lower anchor at the top of the 3rd pitch its about 195 feet to the ground, so one rap with 2 ropes, or 3 easy raps with one rope.
By Lynn S
Nov 8, 2009
There is now a more direct first pitch for DEFCON 1, just put this in last Friday. I would put the rating at 10b/c, more sustained climbing than the original start. Both starts end at the same anchor.
The variation begins about 20 feet left of the original. Climb past two bolts while staying left of a small dirty corner. Continue up past 3 more bolts, a #3 camalot and yellow tcu placement and one final bolt to the anchor. 70 feet and still needs some cleaning. There are a couple of hollow flakes here and there so tread lightly until I get back up to clean more.
The gear placements are in horizontals. Most of the horizontals still hold a good amount of silt but are predominantly positive. Bringing a brush is always helpful.
You now could do one long pitch from the ground to the top of pitch 2 with minimal rope drag.