BETA PHOTO: Nick Goldsmith leading Celibacy 5.9+ For a comp...
This cliff is home to about 25-30 climbs; some high quality trad climbs, mostly on the left side, and some mixed climbs (i.e. bolts and gear) of varying quality on the right. The cliff faces south and can be quite windy since it sits on the ridge upon which the long trail runs. Several climbs can be top roped and a 60m rope is sufficient for all the climbs. I've included only the best climbs on the left side for now. There is a decent little website that you can check out for information on the other climbs, which I'm pretty sure is deersleapvt.com.
Dear Leap is located in Killington on Rte. 4 near Pico Ski resort. The cliff sits above The Inn on the Long Trail, and parking is across the road.
The approach takes about 15 minutes, and requires some scrambling. The quickest route is not easy to find, but ascends a short slab (below and to the left are a couple shorter climbs that need some more traffic to clean up), then finds a way through some boulders above.
Follow steep face up past 3 bolts through dirty easier climbing to a 4 bolt, move right up through steeper corner onto slab and traverse left above large roof past 2 more bolts to anchors. ...[more]Browse More Classics in VT