Deer Leap - Windham, NH Where'd the bolts come from?

Hey,

Back in the day buddies and I would frequent Deer Leap in Windham for some mild TR/Bouldering adventure. We rarely saw any other climbers out there. I went back a couple of weeks ago for nostalgia's sake and saw that some of the harder stuff had been strategically bolted. Looks like whoever did it, did a nice job and only bolted where there wasn't any opportunity for gear on lead.

I was wondering if anyone had any info on the area... who bolted it, etc. It was nice to see someone taking such a thoughtful approach to developing the crag i cut my climbing teeth on.

Just Jesse wrote:Hey, Back in the day buddies and I would frequent Deer Leap in Windham for some mild TR/Bouldering adventure. We rarely saw any other climbers out there. I went back a couple of weeks ago for nostalgia's sake and saw that some of the harder stuff had been strategically bolted. Looks like whoever did it, did a nice job and only bolted where there wasn't any opportunity for gear on lead. I was wondering if anyone had any info on the area... who bolted it, etc. It was nice to see someone taking such a thoughtful approach to developing the crag i cut my climbing teeth on.

Are there any climbs worth doing here? As for bolted routes what are the ratings?

It's worth a 1/2 day trip just to check it out. Perfect for an after work sorta deal... especially if you live in the area. There are quite a few 5.5 - 5.7's that are great to TR with kids/new climbers. There's a great overhang on the main cliff that used to feel around 5.10+ (that i think has a few bolts now) I haven't been on it in a few though. Down the trail a ways from that there are 2 other cliffs, the bottom of the two has a nice 5.10 ish mixed route and a fairly sweet crack-ledge-roof-face thing that protects pretty well (or TR). If you head out on an afternoon you won't get too bored too quickly. I prolly wouldn't drive too far for it though.

Buggier than hell around dusk though... welcome to NH.

Been climbing there for quite a long time. No recent visits however, as the ticks are something fierce. Anyhow the bolted lines have been there for about 6-7 yrs. Nice glue in's. There just used to be the lone bolt on the top of the roof for TR. Check out the link I have posted for Southern NH guide books and download the '84 guide book...pretty cool history. The routes are in the .11d to .12c range. I can also send you a topo I came up with a few years back...but the guide will give you everything, minus the new routes as they are listed as aid lines. Enjoy.

mediafire.com/?uir85978fgge…

Awesome! Thanks for the link. Might be the greatest DIY guidebook I have ever seen. Love the cover art. It's funny to find out the "real" names for climbs we've been doing forever. I don't remember the bolt on top of the roof though... just the world's sketchiest pin probably set in the 80's. (not that the pin was set badly - it just freaked us out enough to back it up a couple different ways)

Anyhoo, thanks for the history. If you wanna send over the topo, that'd be even more awesome. You rock.

Same thing happend to me last weekend. I went to a local crag that i haven't been to in 4-5 years and there were some glue in bolts in a few areas and some anchor chains at the top of a couple climbs.

Figured i'd head out there yesterday for a lil nostalga and some quick bouldering, and realized that the leap is still one of my favorite places to climb after work. I also realized that pond that the main cliff overlooks is completely dried up, making all of the routes in the aforementioned guide accessible - which adds another 6 or so trad/TR climbs. Had the entire place to myself... also another added bonus.

Also, if you've been working the overhang (on the main cliff), your draws are still there. I saw them and figured you'd be back for them. I had forgotten how hard the start to that climb was.

So this is a TR/Trad Mix?? I got into climbing about 3 months ago and found out about this place, which is conveniently 5 min from my work. Id personally love to see some sport bolt setups, as i do mainly sport, but ill be swinging by on my way home from work tonight to check it out. Any extra info would be appreciated, thanks!

Hey there. The sport is fairly tough and may require a piece or 2 to keep it safe. The Trad is great. I started my climbing there many years back and I feel it is a great training ground to Graduate to many other area's as the gear is not always straight forward. Check out the above link for further info or send over a PM. Enjoy. Let me know if you want to get out anytime midweek evening. I can give a tour when the ticks die down. Enjoy.

Hey there!

Nick Goldsmith did much of the work over there. He is Tradmanclimbs at the NEClimb.com website. I am sure he would appreciate your kind words and appreciation.

Cheers

Chris

Different Deer Leap Chris. This is the one in Windham. Small local crag. I believe there is about 3 Deer leaps kicking around in the Northeast...along with the multiple Devils Den. Hope to catch ya soon. Enjoy.

Oh....lol...sorry! :)

Yeah, but our Deer Leap is the best! Ha Ha... prolly not, but I still dig it. I was actually out there the last 2 Sundays and it seems as though the pond has been dammed higher up this year, so you can get at all of the routes on the main cliff, which is pretty sweet. There is an overlap to the way left on the main that is one of the more fun things i've climbed this year. maybe 5.8 and pretty decent gear (although as Jeremy pointed out, not so straight forward) but totally worth a trip up.

Happy to say that in both days out there, i haven't seen one tick on me, but if you're going to do the main, bring a tarp to put your rope on as there's a ton of broken glass at the base. Next time i'm out i'll bring a trash bag.

Crap...now that I go to the top of the Post I see where it says Windham as clear as a bell. Serves me right for jumping into the middle of a thread! lol

I have only visited the one in VT once. Neat little place not far from Killington.

~c

Thanks for the info guys!

So I live < 20 minutes away from this place and just found out about it - awesome. Does anybody have the topo that Jeremy A mentioned in his post above?

sorry eric. i've got no topo, but the guide book that jeremy posted the link to will be helpful for the climbs/grades. I can give ya a quickie guide to the specific cliffs though. It's fairly easy to find what you're looking for:

Park in the lot (not at the end of the road as the neighbors get windshield smashingly pissed). You can tell you're in the lot by the sign that's got a skull w/ aviators stenciled on it.

Take the trail... at the split/carn hang left. Walk a ways, passing a car sized boulder and skirting a rock wall. As soon as the trail starts to go uphill, veer left for the "porcupine cliff" and "mike's cliff(?)" you'll come out on top of porcupine (5.easy) below that is mike's...that has a 5.7ish crack and a 5.10+ mixed face climb... fun stuff.

Or, for the main cliff, stay on the main trail and you can't help but to run into the top of it. go down and around the left hand side and you'll pass the overhang (5.holysh!tthatshard) which is also a mixed route or continue to the main face which is TR or trad. It doesn't get harder than 5.8 IMO but the left side is fun as hell. Watch the broken glass though. You can TR the main pretty easily if you bring a long piece of static rope (20' ish).

Hope that helped. Have fun.