|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Larry Treiber, 1975|
|Submitted By:||Chas Waterman on May 13, 2013|
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By Paul Davidson
Oct 30, 2013
FWIW - this was originally done as two pitches by Treiber. (I think it's longer than 80')
His first pitch ended at a semi-hanging belay in the stacks just left of the climber. I led it as one pitch in the late '70's/early '80s with Randy Mettler and we pulled out a #2 hex from the original belay.
I suspect that was a 2nd ascent because the nut came right out when I climbed by it.
I traded it back to Treiber in exchange for the story of the first ascent:
He broke the pitch there because he wasn't sure his 50m would reach and more importantly, he was worried about his second getting up the climb. I don't recall who was the second.
The nut was left at the belay because it was sundowning and the second was (as Treiber put it) "totaly freaked hanging at that belay and he just unclipped and left the gear that didn't come right out."
I suspect the belayer was also a bit nervous about having Treiber wing onto him from the top moves. Larry was not a small guy and as I recall, it's a slightly run out and sort of balancey at the top?
RIP Larry Treiber...
Everyone who climbs much at the mountain should do this route and Slide Action Traction to have an idea of Larry's FA face climbing skills.
BTW - I think the best approach to this climb is to climb the Flying Buttress and then do the Coke Bottle rap to the start of the climb.