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 ADVANCED
The Cirque of the Climbables (aka The Tombstone)
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Corner Route 
Deep Voodoo 
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Deep Voodoo 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 380', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A2+ [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,453
Submitted By: Jay Brown on Nov 1, 2001
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P2

Description 

side of first tombstone.

I'm sure i might not be the only one, but i have done this route clean at C2 in November 2001.Recently I have seen chalk and tick marks on the aid pitch...sick!


Protection 

Rack: 3 sets nuts/RPs, 1 set cams to #3, 3 sets TCUs...or throw out computer then open up the book and read the rack.



Photos of Deep Voodoo Slideshow Add Photo
Rapping from second pitch anchors. Deep Voodoo is the thin crack up and left of climber
BETA PHOTO: Rapping from second pitch anchors. Deep Voodoo is ...
Comments on Deep Voodoo Add Comment
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By Luke Malatesta
From: Moab Utah
Aug 3, 2007

According to the ASCA's website, the route went clean in 1999 @ C3+ during an aid solo (www.safeclimbing.org/areas/utah/moab.htm).
An amazing route....I havent done it yet but find it to look a bit more hard than c2.

By Old Skool
May 4, 2008

C3/C3+ When I Solo'd it clean in '99 and again when I returned to finish fixing up all the anchor's in '00. Jimmy Dunn and Dean Potter where still working on FFA of "Play'n Hooky" when I did my last trip. Afterwards, Dean asked me about the pro etc and at what Free Rating would it go at... I guessed in the .13's. He said he may give it a go.

By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c C3-

All of the webbing on the anchors is in need of repair. THe old Fixed Knife Blades are time bombs. Combine pitches 1-2. One rope rap from the last pitch to the third and then a rap barely gets you to the top of pitch one. Lots of nuts! Someone should finish the route and do a bolt ladder to the top. It is a little anticlimactic to see the top thirty feet from you but the route ends.

By Stiles
From: the mountains
Oct 14, 2013

Crux pitch is looong and uniformly small gear, soaked up #5 HB offset brassies. Very scarred. No C2 about it, pretty stiff, thought we. Big fall potential, but steep and clean. Depends on the size of your rack, l reckon. No fixed KBs as mentioned