Deep Throat 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | John Garson, 1975 |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Apr 23, 2008 |
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Description This has varied climbing in a deep flare. It starts out offwidth, then thins to hands at the overhanging crux. It is great stemming practice. The rock is a little rough, which along with the flare makes placing protection somewhat strenuous. In all, it is a fun climb.
Location This is on the Southeast corner of Ted's Trot Block. It is right of The Central Scrutinizer, left of Bombay. The dihedral in which this climb is located generally faces south.
Protection Stoppers to #4 Camalot. #5 and #6 Camalots are nice but not required. One of each should be enough. Be prepared to fight with crystals and a flared crack when trying to place gear. Belaying from the rappel bolts on top of the block prevents the rope from jamming in the bulge. Otherwise, you could build an anchor with hand-sized cams.
Addendum This route submission name was changed to orphaned due to the nature of the internet and links it created.
By 303scott
Jun 14, 2011
| I thought this route was burly...and excellent! Varied climbing, insecure, and very well-protected. While it looks like it requires a #5 or #6 from the ground, I found two #4s protected it (although I did use a #5 in the anchor). |
By slim
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c
| Even for Vedauwoo, I remember this one being pretty hard for the grade. Technical in a really strange sort of way. Some of the gear is finicky to, due to the crystals/bottomed out crack. |
By Deke Doty
Aug 29, 2011
| There is now a two bolt anchor. |
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