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Nautilus
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Unsorted Routes:

Deep Throat 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Garson, 1975
Page Views: 1,254
Submitted By: Orphaned on Apr 23, 2008
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Description 

This has varied climbing in a deep flare. It starts out offwidth, then thins to hands at the overhanging crux. It is great stemming practice. The rock is a little rough, which along with the flare makes placing protection somewhat strenuous. In all, it is a fun climb.


Location 

This is on the Southeast corner of Ted's Trot Block. It is right of The Central Scrutinizer, left of Bombay. The dihedral in which this climb is located generally faces south.


Protection 

Stoppers to #4 Camalot. #5 and #6 Camalots are nice but not required. One of each should be enough. Be prepared to fight with crystals and a flared crack when trying to place gear. Belaying from the rappel bolts on top of the block prevents the rope from jamming in the bulge. Otherwise, you could build an anchor with hand-sized cams.


Addendum 

This route submission name was changed to orphaned due to the nature of the internet and links it created.



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By 303scott
Jun 14, 2011

I thought this route was burly...and excellent! Varied climbing, insecure, and very well-protected. While it looks like it requires a #5 or #6 from the ground, I found two #4s protected it (although I did use a #5 in the anchor).

By slim
Administrator
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Even for Vedauwoo, I remember this one being pretty hard for the grade. Technical in a really strange sort of way. Some of the gear is finicky to, due to the crystals/bottomed out crack.

By Deke Doty
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Aug 29, 2011

There is now a two bolt anchor.

By Dave Alie
From: Golden, CO
Sep 27, 2013

For what it's worth, I also felt that this was stiff for 10a even by Vedauwoo standards. For all my struggling, however, I managed to send first try, so I don't think it's outrageously sandbagged. In regards to the off-width start, the crack in the recess starts a bit wide, but you can stem and chimney your way through a series of good stances which make bringing really wide gear unnecessary. Leave the #6 on the ground. +1 for Slim's comment about somewhat wonky gear. Good placements can be had before entering the crux, take the time to place a good piece then fire the last bit to the chains. Excellent pitch, though. Easier than it looks from the ground.