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Pistol Whipped
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Dee is Dancing 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Laurent Meillon and Anders the Viking
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,804
Submitted By: Laurent Meillon on Oct 10, 2004

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Ginger danicing on Dee is Dancing, Indian Creek

Description 

From know Pistol Whipped routes, walk 8 minutes right. Stop 20 ft left of the one large lonely tree. Climb 2 thin cracks. Start with left thin crack on slabby face, transfer to right thin crack. After left crack ends, right Crack ocasionally widens, providing some hand jams and rest. The Anchor is just left of the crack, where it goes chimney wide.This climb is unusual for Indian Creek, requiring good feet placement outside the cracks.

The climb was put up in memory of Dee Johnson, a Devil's Lake,WI lady who climbed into her 70s and inspired many with her broad, wholesome smile and her flowing, effortless movement on the rock.

Protection 

(1) #0.5, (2 each) #0.75,#1,#2, (1) #3 Friends, set of sm. & med. nuts, draws and longs.Anchor: 2 12-mm Bolts Anchor with rap ring. It would be nice to add a chain on the top bolt to replace the 11mm rope.


Photos of Dee is Dancing Slideshow Add Photo
clipping the 00c3 at the crack switch
clipping the 00c3 at the crack switch
moving high over 2 nuts on the first half of the c...
moving high over 2 nuts on the first half of the c...

Comments on Dee is Dancing Add Comment
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By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Thanks for equipping this fine route!
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Steep and quality route that offers something different than most other climbs at the Creek- technical footwork. The rock is a bit soft over here, so heads up.
By slim
Administrator
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

fun route. the hike over there isn't as far as it looks, so go do it!