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The business starts once you clip the second bolt, and from there, it is 15 feet of slopey madness, thin feet, and balancy moves on a slightly overhanging wall. After a good rest, negotiate a system of cracks to the anchor. The rock gets a little fragile at that point.
There is a line of bolts left of chimney starting from a large ledge. It is the second pitch of Sabaki
, but you can scramble up on the ledge from the left if you want to avoid the first pitch.
Bolts to a 2-bolt anchor around the lip.
From: Denver, CO
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forgot to take a picture but cool looking route on good rock! Thought I would chime in that there's a pretty big run from the last bolt to the anchors. Maybe 25 feet, and while the climbing is easier, it's still perhaps 11- easing into 10. Even one stopper or mid-sized cam would go a long way to making the end more comfortable. Also, the anchor bolts are pretty old, one looked like a 1/4", and they're equipped w/ old sun-baked webbing. If I'm back up there, I'll bring some quicklinks or chain, but until then, you may want something to rap off of.
Not totally bomber stone but pretty good and really cool sequences!