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Old Sandstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack T 
Alligator Wall T,TR 
American Beauty Crack T,TR 
Baker Street TR 
Broken Foot T 
Chez's Chimney T,TR 
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
Curving Crack T,TR 
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 
Deceptive T,TR 
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 
Everleigh Club Crack T 
Freaky Face T,TR 
Gargantua T,TR 
Girls Named Sue T 
Half Crack T,TR 
Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

Deceptive 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: probably Ralph Schimdt and Sal Sepson
Page Views: 709
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Jun 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Leading "Deceptive".

Description 

Climb a few feet right of "Curving Crack". Move up on small crimps to rest ledge and overhang. Move through overhang on nice jug and layback to top.


Location 

Between "Curving Crack" and "Out There"


Protection 

The pro is is non-existent until you reach the overhang (you could place pro to the left into curving crack). From there is it protectable with small wires and cams.



Photos of Deceptive Slideshow Add Photo
Leading "Deceptive".
Leading "Deceptive".
Curving Crack (8), Deceptive (9), Out There (10)
BETA PHOTO: Curving Crack (8), Deceptive (9), Out There (10)
Leading "Deceptive".
Leading "Deceptive".
Top out! Second crux happens where my feet are in this pic.
Top out! Second crux happens where my feet are in ...
Comments on Deceptive Add Comment
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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 2, 2008

FA anyone??

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jul 2, 2008

not sure on the fa on this one .....perhaps the infamous Ralph schimdt and Sal sepson

By Tradoholic
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R

I got a directional in a few feet up and then not another piece until the rest spot. I gave it "R" because of the crimpy solo to the rest. Good moves all the way with another distinct crux at the top protected with some ball nuts. Probably not climbed enough. "Out There" (5.9+) to the right of this is also very good and often over-looked.

By Michael Sullivan
From: Madison, WI
Nov 4, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Does anyone know where the proper location of this route's finish is? Does it finish to the right of Curving Crack at the same ledge? Or does it finish to the right and above Curving Crack as Trad Ninja can be seen doing in photos of the route? Could these two variations perhaps explain the difference in suggested rating from 10c to 10+?

By Tradoholic
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R

I would say more is better, so up and right higher is proper.

By CCase
Jul 20, 2014

My climbing partner and I got into a heated discussion on what is technically "off" on this line and I wanted to ask the Lake community their opinion. I know you cannot use any part of Curving, but is it acceptable to use any of the rounded corners that eventually turn into Curving on the climbers left below the first rest?

Being a route purest I said no and that it was technically was not park of the "face," but they said it was acceptable... any thoughts?

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 21, 2014

Well... I know for sure that using those holds off to the left make the grade easier... So call it climbing Deceptive with maybe an easier 5.10 grade? Do and climb whatever you like... there are no real rules regarding that particular aspect of rock climbing. But then later when your recounting (or bragging... talking smack) just be honest and admit you reached off to the left when doing the entrance moves of "Deceptive".