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 ADVANCED
North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dancing Feet T 
Deception T 
Deception Direct T 
Harvey's Wallbangers, Center T 
Harvey's Wallbangers, Right T 
Knapsack Crack T 
Manic Depressive Direct T 
Reds Delight T 
Spam Sandwich T 
Wave Rider T 

Deception 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 5,301
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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BETA PHOTO: Hogsback North Face, seen from Rocky Canyon. Extre...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Deception shares the same start as Deception Direct, which takes the obvious vertical crack which goes up the entire formation, to the right/west of Knapsack.

Start up the crack in the corner, and once it becomes feasible to mantle up to the left, do so, and continue up and belay on a blocky ledge. If you miss the obvious mantle/traverse and head straight up, you're on deception direct, which has a thin 5.9 rp protected crux.

2nd pitch goes up, traverses left to a crack which parallels the first crack. Continue up this crack for a long way, then make an exciting 5.6 crux slab smear traverse to rejoin the original crack, and belay on the ledge.

3rd pitch pulls some blocky 5.6 mantles to the summit, short.

Location 

50' right/west of Knapsack crack. I would suggest this climb to fledgling leaders, since there is a lot more 5th class terrain on this route, as opposed to Knapsack. Plus, you don't generally have to wait in the Knapsack line, which often features very, very, slow parties.

Protection 

standard rack.


Photos of Deception Slideshow Add Photo
View down the whole climb from the top belay. Belay from the rocks / cracks at the top - and you'll be able to see your climber - don't be tempted by the tree
BETA PHOTO: View down the whole climb from the top belay. Bela...
Workin' the rail and almost through: a hot day like this one made for an exciting amount of friction.
Workin' the rail and almost through: a hot day lik...
Ellen prepping to pull over the edge of the flake and begin the crux traverse. <br /> <br />June 2011
Ellen prepping to pull over the edge of the flake ...
Fearlessly executed :)
Fearlessly executed :)
The base of the climb, this is what it looks like.
The base of the climb, this is what it looks like....
View from the optional belay to do the climb in two pitches. can see the route.  Climber (Rachel Adams) is just above the 1st Belay station for the 3 pitch variation.
BETA PHOTO: View from the optional belay to do the climb in tw...

Comments on Deception Add Comment
Show which comments
By Evan1984
Mar 6, 2008

Good climbing for someone new to the area or grade. It's well protected.

The crux is a slab traverse from crack system to crack system. i got a bomber nut in and took off. Still a bit pucker inducing, but doable if you keep moving.

Cheers
By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 11, 2010

Very notable crux section. Slab between two cracks like Evan Horvath stated, climbed up left, put a .25 in, and down climbed till I could get feet on the thin ledges that are the only support for the traverse. You'll want to pro up as high as you can on the left, gnarly fall if you mess up traverse without high up pro.
By Josh Cameron
Jul 17, 2011

The best route on the Hobsback. I've always climbed it in two long pitches. A 60m rope will do, but the second pitch will be a rope stretcher. For the first belay, belay in the alcove after the stacked blocks after you traverse to the left. Then last pitch takes you to the top where you can belay off the tree. You won't be able to hear your belayer so be sure to have some alternative form of communication besides yelling.

For an added bonus, instead of traversing left after the stacked blocks, continue to the top of the blocks then up a 5.6ish finger crack. Takes #3 metolius cam or nutes to protect.
By Brendan Moriarty
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 4, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is good quality, easily-protected and fun crack and flake climbing. Pitch 1 you can practically walk up. Pitch 2 is the most interesting and offers a really fun 5.7 finger crack alternate route. I'd highly recommend it if you're comfortable climbing cracks and/or 5.7s. If you're not, you might get a bit freaked. Either way you'll probably find some goodies stuck in there from parties past. Overall, this is a great into to Lover's Leap. As a beginner trad leader, you'd do well to climb this first upon arrival.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Before the crux section I was able to place a large #5 camalot C4.

I did an alternative to the crux traverse. Where you would traverse right I continued up the corner. A few feet up you can exit the corner on left on a series of dikes. This is runnout but maybe only slightly more so than the traverse and once you step out onto the dikes the climbing is fairly easy. Continue up the dikes and make an easy traverse back right onto the usual line.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Karsten thanks for sharing, I'd been curious about that finish! I've been off route so many other little sections of this climb, may as well try that line, too.
By Darryl Styles
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think the trail round the back (off main lovers leap trail) is the way to go. Faster, easier terrain for those not wanting to stumble around on loose talas.
Good climb, went up the 5.9 crack section which I think is accurate considering most of the sandbagging that happens at the leap area.. The rest i would personally rate at 5.7, and only for two or three moves. The rest 5.6.
By Angie C
From: Sacramento, Ca
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I put in a .3 at my feet right before the crux traverse. I think the traverse is 5.6 not 5.5. The 5.6 crack below the traverse is fun, protects well and has great hands.