Deception 5.6
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Ellen prepping to pull over the edge of the flake ...
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Deception shares the same start as Deception Direct, which takes the obvious vertical crack which goes up the entire formation, to the right/west of Knapsack. Start up the crack in the corner, and once it becomes feasible to mantle up to the left, do so, and continue up and belay on a blocky ledge. If you miss the obvious mantle/traverse and head straight up, you're on deception direct, which has a thin 5.9 rp protected crux. 2nd pitch goes up, traverses left to a crack which parallels the first crack. Continue up this crack for a long way, then make an exciting 5.6 crux slab smear traverse to rejoin the original crack, and belay on the ledge. 3rd pitch pulls some blocky 5.6 mantles to the summit, short.
Location 50' right/west of Knapsack crack. I would suggest this climb to fledgling leaders, since there is a lot more 5th class terrain on this route, as opposed to Knapsack. Plus, you don't generally have to wait in the Knapsack line, which often features very, very, slow parties.
Protection standard rack.
Workin the rail and almost through: a hot day like...
| Fearlessly executed :)
| BETA PHOTO: View from the optional belay to do the climb in tw...
| BETA PHOTO: View down the whole climb from the top belay. Bela...
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By Evan1984 Mar 6, 2008
| Good climbing for someone new to the area or grade. It's well protected. The crux is a slab traverse from crack system to crack system. i got a bomber nut in and took off. Still a bit pucker inducing, but doable if you keep moving. Cheers |
By Michaeld916 From: Sacramento, CA Oct 11, 2010
| Very notable crux section. Slab between two cracks like Evan Horvath stated, climbed up left, put a .25 in, and down climbed till I could get feet on the thin ledges that are the only support for the traverse. You'll want to pro up as high as you can on the left, gnarly fall if you mess up traverse without high up pro. |
By Josh Cameron Jul 17, 2011
| The best route on the Hobsback. I've always climbed it in two long pitches. A 60m rope will do, but the second pitch will be a rope stretcher. For the first belay, belay in the alcove after the stacked blocks after you traverse to the left. Then last pitch takes you to the top where you can belay off the tree. You won't be able to hear your belayer so be sure to have some alternative form of communication besides yelling. For an added bonus, instead of traversing left after the stacked blocks, continue to the top of the blocks then up a 5.6ish finger crack. Takes #3 metolius cam or nutes to protect. |
By Brendan Moriarty From: Berkeley, CA Jul 4, 2012 rating: 5.6
| This is good quality, easily-protected and fun crack and flake climbing. Pitch 1 you can practically walk up. Pitch 2 is the most interesting and offers a really fun 5.7 finger crack alternate route. I'd highly recommend it if you're comfortable climbing cracks and/or 5.7s. If you're not, you might get a bit freaked. Either way you'll probably find some goodies stuck in there from parties past. Overall, this is a great into to Lover's Leap. As a beginner trad leader, you'd do well to climb this first upon arrival. |
By cstuck From: Granite Bay,california Aug 5, 2012
| The black nut was still stuck as of 8/4 |
By Karsten From: Sacramento, CA Mar 25, 2013 rating: 5.6
| Before the crux section I was able to place a large #5 camalot C4. I did an alternative to the crux traverse. Where you would traverse right I continued up the corner. A few feet up you can exit the corner on left on a series of dikes. This is runnout but maybe only slightly more so than the traverse and once you step out onto the dikes the climbing is fairly easy. Continue up the dikes and make an easy traverse back right onto the usual line. |
By Justin Johnsen Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Mar 25, 2013 rating: 5.6
| Karsten thanks for sharing, I'd been curious about that finish! I've been off route so many other little sections of this climb, may as well try that line, too. |
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