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Climb the short face to the first bolt and then head up to the right side of the roof. Pull through the roof using a series of small, off balance side pulls on equally small foot holds (crux). The trick is to continuously get your feet as high as possible, transfer your weight to the high foot, and then pull up a little more. Clip the second bolt just above the roof (felt very off balance here) and then continue up the dihedral past one more bolt to the anchors. The climbing eases significantly above the second bolt.
Deception Pass is the first climb on Hand Beyond Wall (side closest to Dead Cats). Look for a roof about a third of the way up with a dihedral above.
Three bolts to a two bolt anchor shared with Overlord (5.12b).
|Comments on Deception Pass
|By trevor becker|
Jan 19, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
GoPro HERO 2 HD footage of Deception Pass: