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Deception Boulder

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Deception 
One Move Wonder 

Deception Boulder  


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Location: 41.506, -71.7702 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 587
Administrators: M Sprague, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dana Seaton on Sep 20, 2010
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Description 

A huge boulder with a striking prow. Directly on a high traffic hiking trail, clean off chalk and do not disturb plant life.

Getting There 

From the Parking area for Long and Ell pond, off Canonchet road, take the right hand yellow dot trail west along a ridge above Long pond on DEM land. It is about 5 minutes in, right on the trail. Just beyond the boulder becomes Audubon/Nature Conservancy land so do not climb beyond this point, be quiet and leave the boulder brushed clean of chalk.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.8 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


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Photos of Deception Boulder Slideshow Add Photo
Deception v8
Deception v8

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 9, 2014
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 15, 2011
Dana, unfortunately, it seems pretty clear this is on Audubon/Nature Conservancy land and they are very hostile to climbing. See the map mdc.net/~dbrier/yawgoog/trails... if you are going to try to climb here, know you are going guerrilla and leave no trace. It is right on the trail though and the area is patroled. I used to sneak in and solo on some of the cliffs, figuring I could run faster then them, but I have heard of them confiscating people's gear.

Edit- closer inspection shows this as probably ok, but still be discrete and low impact to not ruffle feathers.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Dec 15, 2011
There are some classic climbing routes on the Audubon land that Ward Smith put up years ago. They are on the bigger cliffs off the trail across the pond. The bolt and piton are probably still there. Unfortunatly you can no longer climb there. The bird watchers don't want any scruffy climbers scaring the birds. :-)
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 15, 2011
The biggest piece of rock in this area is on the peninsula on the north west side of Long Pond, but the cliffs with Ward and Chris's routes are more to the south west from there, just in front of where the word "Audubon" starts on the map. They are fun to at least look at if you like to explore around. There is a wide crack back there that is like the one over in Yawgoog, i.e., similar size and hand shredding crystals inside. Hiking boots fit well in it and made it bearable. It is a wonderful area and I am glad it is preserved, even if we can't climb there.
By Joe M.
Dec 16, 2011
Mark, I actually think the audobon land starts after the deception boulder. I might be wrong as I have only been there twice, but I seem to remember the signs being after the boulder on the trail?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 16, 2011
Good catch, Joe. I dug around for more detailed maps and found an Audubon map which shows a narrow strip of DEM land running down the trail to what looks like just after the boulder. There is also more DEM land to the west. I did find one boulder out that way sitting on top of a ridge, but it was out in the middle of nowhere and I doubt I could refind it any time soon.
By Dana Seaton
Jan 8, 2012
I have spoken with the ranger for the Audubon who patrols regularly, and he confirmed that this boulder is in fact on DEM land and legal. However, it is in such a high visibility area climbers should continue to maintain a low impact presence.
By Sean Gilman
May 26, 2014
Has anybody tried the hard looking line that goes up the left arÍte on opposite side of deception boulder?
Has anybody tried working this?
Has anybody tried working this?
By Dana Seaton
May 26, 2014
Yes this has been done. Un named.
By Sean Gilman
May 26, 2014
Any idea who or when?
By Dana Seaton
May 27, 2014
I watched Matt Wilder do it, but Marc, Mike or Shylo may have done it sooner. I think the Landman brothers also did it.
By Joe M.
Jun 9, 2014
Dana, how hard is that? I tried it way back when, and remember that it seemed like a really good problem...
By Dana Seaton
Jun 9, 2014
Prob v7, 8, or 9ish.