Decepticon 5.10a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Jim Thoen and Susan Hurst |
| Submitted By: | Woody Stark on Apr 21, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: Decepticon (5.10a) climbs the smoothest section o...
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Description This route is located on the right end of the west face of The Manure Pile formation. This is a fine route that I've led twice and will lead again. The crux is at the beginning and is height dependent; for me at five nine, it's around ten b/c. If you're shorter, well, life's unfair. Once over the initial pullup, the climb swings up and to the left with enjoyable climbing all the way.
Protection Two bolts and a standard rack
By Woody Stark Jun 8, 2004
| I noticed the differences in spelling between Bartlett and Vogel and assumed "Decepticon" was a typo. |
By Locker From: Westminster, CO Jan 24, 2005 rating: 5.10a
| did it today with Tan. Decent climb! And at 5.8 feet tall, it goes at 5.10a......... |
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator Jan 28, 2006 rating: 5.10b
| Thoen and his wife were bored when they did this... |
By tony grice Nov 15, 2006
| 3 bolts, bolt 2 is loose, watch out. Fun route, easy TR. |
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal Jul 27, 2007
| For me, at 5' 91/2" the route feels like 10a; shorter folk must make one more, much harder fiction move at the first bolt to gain the edge for the left hand. After the crux, the route goes up and right, not left, although there is a curious bolt to the left between bolts two and three. There are three bolts on this climb. As of this date the top (third) bolt is still very loose. |
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal Aug 12, 2007
| The top bolt has been replaced and is good to go now. |
By bsavall Apr 26, 2010
| I agree with the other post that shorter folk may have an additional hard move to get to the good hold before the first bolt. At 5'7" that first sequence took me a few tries on top rope before I finally got it. |
By Jim Thoen May 5, 2011 rating: 5.10a/b
| Put up in mid 80s using an old rigging axe for a hammer, all I had. Tape I used to haul it tore near the top and just missed Susan -whooo, I wasn't bored after that Adam! (Suuup man?) those were wild times. Added the third bolt in mid 90s. True name "Decepticon" after the toys our boys were playing with. Had passed it over the years and nobody wanted to work it-hence the play on words. |
By Canon Nov 17, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| Cool moves at/above the first bolt. Good left foot, smear with right, reach directly overhead for two-hand crimp. Don't get suckered into the second (or third?) bolt that's way left. Gear anchor. |
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