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Rated 5.3 in the Old Hackworth guide, I did this and thought it was the worst sandbag I have ever been on. While the grade has been adjusted, the climb is still hard for 5.7 and is not always well protected.
Climb up a crack system to the left of the Sunshine/Moonbeam climbs and up over a dirty top-out to belay at the base of a tree. The top of this climb tends to collect debris and can be slick, so pay attention.
The main approach Trail comes up to a point in the wall and forks. If you take the left fork you quickly reach Into The Light, Sunshine, and Moonbeam (short steep pocket routes) on your right in short order. Just after passing the 3 of these there is a seldom traveled crack system, "Decay's Way."
Whatever of a standard rack you can fiddle in.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The start is a solid 5.9 move.
By Matt Glue
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 14, 2012
A 6" cam can be walked up most of the climb, while you fiddle in sometimes marginal gear along the way.