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Decameron, The 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Horst, McCallister, Ganote, Hintz (2004)
Page Views: 3,301
Submitted By: DaveB on Jun 16, 2008
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7/13/2013

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Description 

Begin in chimney and commence up right face through broken crack system and trend left around blocky bulge to base of dihedral (handcrack). Traverse left onto face, make a challenging clip, head for the arete (crux), and follow it to the top.

Nice exposure and beautiful view.

(Crux - inspect and strategize thoroughly, it's all there.)


Location 

Far right side of Sandstonia Wall, past Shady Lady (5.7) alcove, around corner, through slot, past Witches of Bangor (10c), begins in corner chimney.


Protection 

9 bolts.
Anchors.
60m rope.



Photos of Decameron, The Slideshow Add Photo
Start of crux traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Start of crux traverse.
What a great climb
What a great climb
bolt 3 (i think) on the route.  great climb all around
bolt 3 (i think) on the route. great climb all ar...
Comments on Decameron, The Add Comment
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By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 31, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Super sweet climb with a ledge to rest on and ponder the crux. After you figure out how to do the crux, you're rewarded with an amazing view. This is what climbing outdoors is all about!

By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
May 6, 2011

Awesome climb. The crux traverse is thin compared to the rest of the climb. The top section is sustained and fun

By Maitreya Sriram
Jul 25, 2011

Super technical traverse for the crux. Be careful about taking a whip before the 3rd bolt as there's a detached buttress right behind you.

By Javier L
From: Asheville, NC
Sep 24, 2011

Not knowing any better, I went up diagonally on the small crimp instead of traversing all the way to the arete (at the crux). I think this adds a grade but is also probably less interesting.

By Cragmama
From: North Carolina
Dec 12, 2011

Crux felt really thin for the grade, but nice stance just before it to hang out at and unlock the puzzle.

By Matt Baer
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fun Chimney climbing at the beginning then beautiful face climbing with amazing views!

By Alec32
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 29, 2013

Amazing position; thoughtful moves; great climb. Felt hard for 10b, but only that one crux move.

By TheClimbingChad
From: Rockville, Maryland
Jul 15, 2013

View from the top!