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 ADVANCED
Right Gully
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aging Time T 
Decade Dance T 
Elephant In The Room S 
Ginseng Rush S 
Hypertension S 
Jolt Cola S 
Orange Crush S 
Respite S 
Vaso-power linkup T,S 
Vasoconstrictor S 
Vasodilator S 

Decade Dance 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rolofson, Mah 1981
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: david goldstein on Sep 22, 2002

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At the base of the deceptive crux corner. The crac...

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Description 

This is a quality trad route, mostly crack climbing.

Start on the same ledge as Vasodilator, above Ginseng Rush.

P1. Climb the corner at the left side of the ledge to bolts at the end of the 2nd pitch of Jolt Cola, 20', 5.9. The two pitches could be linked, but there would probably be significant rope drag, and the belayer would not be able to see the leader for any of the 2nd pitch.

P2. There are two cracks above the bolts. Decade Dance goes up the left, Aging Time (11b/c) the right (these routes merge halfway up). DD starts with moderate hands and fingers, encountering a crux at the step right to join AT. Encounter another difficult move at a bulging, thin corner after which a short, slightly run-out (#3 RP helpful) face traverse right leads to easier climbing. The anchor is two bolts with slings. A few feet below the bolts the climbing turns licheny and desperate; this direct finish can be avoided by pulling right onto the ledge system and walking over to the anchors. 80', 5.11a.

Descent: a 96' rap gets you back to the starting ledge. It is probably better to do two raps, using the Jolt Cola anchors; this would avoid some loose downclimbing.

Protection 

Basic Eldo rack. I placed gear from #3 RP to #2.5 Friend with several Rocks from #2 to #7 and small to hand-size SLCDs.


Photos of Decade Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Luke's beginning the difficult upper half of the c...
Luke's beginning the difficult upper half of the c...

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