|Type:||Trad, 12 pitches, 1000', Grade IV|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||K. Wheeler, G. Lomme, & S. Miller|
|Submitted By:||Joe Collins on Oct 11, 2003|
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|Comments on Debutante's Ball||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Andy Johnson
Dec 3, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|This is just an ok route in my opinion. There is a lot of total mank on this route. The saving grace is that there are a couple really fun pitches. Sounds like a lot of Black routes I guess. I have only done about 10 routes in the canyon, and this one is by far my least favorite. I will agree that the crux is finding the start. The obvious feature is the huge boulder next to twin thin cracks and not thin like thin fingers, but beak or knifeblade thin. There were at least 5 moments that I yelled down to my partner that I was 100% positive that I was off route, then moved up a move and realized that I was, in fact, on route. Worth doing once, maybe.|
By Boo T. Call
Aug 21, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The blue Alien now adorns my rack.
Worth doing once, that sounds about right.
60m run-togethers: *p3 to a low-angle trough belay above the 5.10 roof (195'); *trough belay through the 11- fingers/RP seam pitch (180?); *'easy 5th' + 5.11 boulder problem =195'; *hard move to junk + '5.11 rotten' (more like 5.10 NTB)= 190'.
You can run the rope out on top as well.
Apr 25, 2007
|Would anybody recommend the debacle over the original start????????|
From: Petaluma California
May 17, 2009
We thought this route was worth doing--once.
The start is tough to find and loose. After that, we wandered right and left for 50 or more feet, and got back on line at pitch 5. The top of the route is easier to follow.
The rotten crack pitch requires care--take a # 4 Camalot. Pitch 8 and the area below the black dihedral contain vibrating death blocks. The dihedral itself is often rotten. Enjoy.
By the way, a big piece at the start of the route fell off.
By eric whewell
From: Longmont, CO
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
|One of the worst routes (I have done) in the Black.|
May 2, 2013
|Just a note to help people find the correct start: the twin seams are relatively short and hard to find at first. Begin in the SOB gully, below a large boulder which is about 50' above a sizeble tree (just before you reach the terrace that is between the two buttresses). This climb is rad - certainly worthy of more traffic than it sees.|