This is an awesome lead, It's a right leaning crack that has cool pockets and liebacking, and some awkward moves. There is a one finger pocket up there, some may be able to fit 2 in. Also when you get close to the top you might just feel like grabbing the owl %@&*. A must do for the trad climber. One of my favorites.
To the right of lost nuts 12a. To get to this climb you will go up by chug a lug on the right side of the pinnicle peak summit. Gain ledges and go in between boulders to the right to get to the base of climb.
2 bolts, One #00 or #0 helps out for the start, there were 2 bolts added to this climb to make it safe. Other than that you will need a #1 cam, .5 cam and .75, having a few of each aint a bad idea, they will come in handy. Nuts can be place but dont work as well with this route.
|By roman d|
From: Pasadena, CA
Jan 10, 2010
This is a good toprope after doing Chutes and Ladders. If leading, I would want to stick-clip the first bolt. Very committing lieback moves right off the deck with a bad landing.
|By Austin Sobotka|
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Really good route, wish it were longer. Stick clip is a good idea, i rapped the route after doing chutes and ladders and clipped the first bolt that way.