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 ADVANCED
Goosehead
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chung King Corner T 
Credibility Gap T 
Death Warmed Over S 
Glide Path T 
Golden Egg, The S 
Goosed But Smilin' T 
Morgue, The S 
Palms Down T 
Scrambled Egg S 
Zombie Flanders S 

Death Warmed Over 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Eric Scully
Page Views: 911
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on Nov 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Sticking the hardest move of the bottom half. Phot...

Description 

Death Warmed Over is one of the best bouldery routes on Mount Lemmon. Follow thin and rounded edges through tensiony and powerful moves. A hard finish guards the chains. The moves are unusual and very fun. A quickdraw (or even a single biner) on the last bolt blocks a crucial hold, so I would recommend leaving this bolt unclipped.

Though short, the route is sustained, and there aren't any "easy" moves to speak of. The rock, while sharp, isn't as bad as it might seem from the ground, though the skin-exfoliating nature of the holds may keep you from putting in attempts too many times per day. It is best to wait until the weather cools down for optimal temperatures, but the route does get morning shade for attempts in less-optimal times of the year.


Location 

Between Zombie Flanders and The Morgue (the project listed in Squeezing the Lemmon II) on the west face of the Goosehead.


Protection 

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor, though the last bolt is an inch or two above a critical hold for the finish and is best skipped on redpoint. Having taken the fall, it is safe, if a little long should your belayer be pulled off the ground.



Photos of Death Warmed Over Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the crux finishing sequence.  Photo by Claire Bukowski.
Starting the crux finishing sequence. Photo by Cl...
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 28, 2012

Nice going Alex. Looks like you are tearing it up. I have a question for you about giving this 35 ft. long route 4 stars. If you find a route that is just like this one but 70 feet long is DWO still a 4 star route?

By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 28, 2012

Fair enough. I felt hesitant about not giving it 4 stars after calling it "one of the best" routes of its type, but I would tend to agree that it is a little short to call a 4 star classic.

By jbak
Nov 28, 2012

And I was thinking... "3 stars ?!"

It's probably 15 years since I touched this route, but my impression was more like 2-ish stars. Maybe I should get on it again... the approach ain't bad !

Is it really a solid 13 ? I thought Scully rated it 13-.

By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 28, 2012

I took the rating from STL, never heard from Scully how hard it was. It is probably hard 13a or pretty spot on 13a/b in my opinion.

EDIT: Found Scully's entry on rockclimbing.com as 13a. The grade is my opinion of its difficulty.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 28, 2012

Nice send Alex!!

By jbak
Nov 29, 2012

Good job Alex, maybe I'll put this route on my to-do list again. I had it worked out 10-15 years ago but broke a hold that was crucial to my beta and lost interest. I could move that mis-placed bolt too.

I remember that one of the holds was like pulling on a credit-card edge.

By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 29, 2012

There are only two or three edges that would really qualify as "credit cards" but they are incut and decently deep. The crux holds are thinner but more rounded than my idea of a credit card. Zombie Flanders has a credit card if I recall which might be your memory as it is right next door. All of the crimps are thin but none of them are the skin-shredding monsters one might think of when looking at the apparently blankness of this face of the Goosehead.