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North Narrows Slabs
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Alley Cat Street 
Climb to Safety 
Death Tongue Variation 
Hitcher, The 
Narrows Crack 
White Line Fever 

Death Tongue Variation 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Aug 25, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Death Tongue's Start

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Description 

This route climbs up a thin corner, up a slab into the obvious dihedral and follows it to the chains above.

The first bolt is a little high, so a small wire is very nice for a backup. Very crimpy moves pull out to the slab, smear and edge up to the dihedral, and enjoy fun laybacks and jams to the top.

If you are not up for the hard start, come in from the corner of Narrows Crack. Climb up a few moves, place a green Alien, and traverse left to the small ledge below the dihedral. Place a #3 Camalot in the horizontal, and climb up to the flake. The flake has a move of 10a, and the variation variation start felt close to that also.

If you can pull the face, the true death tongue out the roof is a great finish.


Protection 

Standard Rack. Bring a #3 and #4 Camalot. Not mandatory but nice.



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