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Death Scream 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 509
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Aug 12, 2009
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Heading into the crux - '09.

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Description 

Dance up the center of the face and then launch into the giant roof (crux.) Pull it using decent holds and likely the use of a mantle, but don't pump out since the feet are very limited and poor. It is very desperate and strenuous gaining the roof. This is a great route to try if you're looking to blow your body out for the day.


Location 

Right up the center of the face and weakness in the roof.


Protection 

Top rope most likely. A vertical crack at the top of the cliff makes for good anchoring (takes cams from 0.5 - 3 Camalot or passive pro.) This crack is approximately 10 feet back from the edge.

Feel free to look for placements for leading, they are probably there. I don't think it would take anything larger than 1".



Photos of Death Scream Slideshow Add Photo
Crux section.
Crux section.
Some more beta (which worked)
Some more beta (which worked)
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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Not a very good route IMO. Surmounting the roof is a grovelly hump and mantle with no footholds.

This was our last route of the day so maybe I was just tired but this felt more like an 5.11 to me.

By Pete Hunt
Mar 4, 2012

I agree that the climbing isn't elegant, but I enjoy the grunting required to send this thing. And I think most would agree that it is tough for the rating. When I'm the first to contribute a route I generally just put the established (guidebook) rating.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Pete, I do that too when posting new (to the site) routes.

I think the heel hook is key to getting your hands in the right spot, but releasing the hook and establishing yourself above the roof....ugh.

By Pete Hunt
Mar 19, 2012

Yeah, it's brutal! I also can't deny that your description in your original comment is pretty accurate.