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Unsorted Routes:

Death Grip 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Chestnut
Season: spring/summer/fall
Page Views: 2,419
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Sep 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Richard Boyle starting up Death Grip

Description 

A fun powerful route on very unique stone. A bouldery pre-clipped start leads to slopers and pinches. Don't botch the start as even with the first bolt pre-clipped if you fall off too early it is still possible to end up in the stream. Start out on good holds to pull the overhang and get up to the first bolt. OK crimps and a good pocket lead to a pinch and a tricky move getting to the clipping holds for the second bolt. Grab a quick shake here and move up on steeper ground through good pinches and make a hard move to a good undercling and the third bolt. Rest here if possible and pull the final tricky moves pulling over the final bulge to a nice rest before the final moves to the anchors.

Location 

Next route to the right of Happy Entrails.

Protection 

3 bolts to anchors with fixed biners. Stickclip recommended, there is currently a stick at the base as well.


Photos of Death Grip Slideshow Add Photo
Richard nearing the top after the high bulge
Richard nearing the top after the high bulge
start of death grip
start of death grip

Comments on Death Grip Add Comment
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By Jarred Cleerdin
Jul 23, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

youtu.be/pCj2_1aTe-Q
By Eric Whitbeck
Dec 1, 2014

Anyone think this route would benefit from a belay bolt low and right? Would that work with the water? I have seen many get tangled up in the rope or get nearly cut in half as they fall back on to it, especially heading to the second clip. Great climbing, but strange bolting.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 1, 2014

I could see a belay/rope management bolt being quite useful. It is hard to figure a great place to put where the belayer would still be out of the water. That's a challenge with the first bolt on all the routes on this wall...keeping it up and away from the water enough so as to not have the belayer standing in the drink. Also, because of the way the climber comes out of the cave and would cross over/under a new first bolt, the placement is another challenge.

Ironically, while just recently working a new project of mine left of Happy Entrails, I noticed an older belay bolt for Happy Entrails in the small cave where the climber starts. I presume this is used by the belayer also standing in the small cave. That tactic could also be used in the small cave at the start of Death Grip but the belayer would not be able to see the climber after the first bolt and might get yanked into the roof of the cave. :)
By Eric Whitbeck
Dec 2, 2014

Jason,
I am not sure of the best way to set it up without actually being at the route, but there must be a way to either add a belay bolt or a low bolt to allow the leader to whip between one and two without getting cut in half by the rope. If you could get the belayers end of the rope out of the way the falls would be clean. Its a great route, but the bolting takes away from the flow as you fight around the rope then get cut in half by it if you fall between one and two. You are a local and probably have a better sense of it than I do as I only try the route once every six months or so, but would love to see it upgraded.