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Death Drives a Stick 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Peter Gram
Page Views: 1,990
Submitted By: Matthew NM on Jul 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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James in the horizontal world of huge roof on &quo...

Description 

The extension of Against Nature through the horizonal roof. Surprisingly, the wobbly "diving board" hold that rattles a full 5" if you push on it is solid...to pull on...I swear. Your belayer is best out of the way when you're making use of this hold. Nonetheless, above this business lies some additional hardness, apparently harder now that a few holds have broken. Rumored to be solid 5.13.

Edit on 9/9/2014 by Jason Halladay: On 9/8/2014 a crucial left hand hold near the "working draw" at the lip broke likely making the moves through this section more difficult.

Protection 

fixed draws above Against Nature's anchors


Photos of Death Drives a Stick Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling past the diving board hold. <br /> <br />Photo by Minesh Bacrania.
Pulling past the diving board hold. Photo by Mine...
Daniel Trugman pulling over the roof on Death Drives a Stick.
Daniel Trugman pulling over the roof on Death Driv...
James H. heading out the giant roof.
James H. heading out the giant roof.

Comments on Death Drives a Stick Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c

Also rumored to be easier according to Peter Gram. Because some of the breakage made one of the crimps better, though still not good enough to clip off of.

On red-point don't bother trying to clip the bolt after the two in the roof, I think this would be the 4th bolt on the extension or the second to last bolt. See Photo for more info on which bolt to skip.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 18, 2012

I learned today the name of the route was inspired by an episode of The Simpsons.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Thanks to whomever replaced all the draws that you clip with cable permadraws. It is nice to not have any questions about draw quality when you're jumping off the finish. It helps to take the time to work out the finishing mantle, it's not too bad once you know where the holds are.