The extension of Against Nature through the horizonal roof. Surprisingly, the wobbly "diving board" hold that rattles a full 5" if you push on it is solid...to pull on...I swear. Your belayer is best out of the way when you're making use of this hold. Nonetheless, above this business lies some additional hardness, apparently harder now that a few holds have broken. Rumored to be solid 5.13.
fixed draws above Against Nature's anchors
From: ABQ, NM
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Also rumored to be easier according to Peter Gram. Because some of the breakage made one of the crimps better, though still not good enough to clip off of.
On red-point don't bother trying to clip the bolt after the two in the roof, I think this would be the 4th bolt on the extension or the second to last bolt. See Photo for more info on which bolt to skip.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 18, 2012
I learned today the name of the route was inspired by an episode of The Simpsons.
From: Albuquerque, NM
4 days ago
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Thanks to whomever replaced all the draws that you clip with cable permadraws. It is nice to not have any questions about draw quality when you're jumping off the finish. It helps to take the time to work out the finishing mantle, it's not too bad once you know where the holds are.