|Stately Pleasure Dome
Obvious left leaning flake/crack up to a small roof with a wide section for the last few body lengths. Decent hands quickly become big hands on very steep terrain. An excellent and striking feature that will challenge pretty much anyone. A great toprope as well.
Continue a couple hundred feet up the far left slab on Stately Pleasure past Dark Angel. Look for the only extremely steep hand sized left leaning flake/crack.
Doubles from #1 - #5 (C4) Camalot. The old style #5 Camalot will not fit in the upper crack. Can be easily set up as a top rope though you will probably want to put a cam or two in the crack to avoid massive swing.
|By Christina Freschl|
From: Berkeley, California
Jul 7, 2012
This is an intimating route with a grainy start. I started laybacking the route, but quickly discovered that straight-in jamming (hands to fists) worked well to get through the first part. Then pull through flakes to get to the offwidth. I used a #5 camalot to protect the top section. Chains at the top help keep the rack light (of course there are the 2-#3s, 1 #4, 2 #5s, and 1 #6 (didn't need) that I brought:)