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Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Eric Johnson, 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: not hot weather
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Apr 22, 2013
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During the Ace of Spades FA, photo by Hard Cor.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The climbing is big fun, and in my opinion this would easily be a three star PG-13 route if the detached flake were 100% solid. It's not going anywhere, but I wouldn’t trust it for gear. To me, this makes it a little more serious than PG-13 and not quite worth three stars. Like Lemmy said, "...you know I'm born to lose, and gambling's for fools, but that's the way I like it baby, I don't want to live forever...."

Begin up technical face to the right of the tree starting Stay Hungry. A 5.10 move or two off the ground leads to fun, unprotected 5.8 slab for 25’ to the right-angling system that provides finger-sized gear and the broken band below the roof. From a stance at the band, find very good Loweball protection in a pod/slot to begin climbing out the overhanging dihedral. Climb crimpers to steep jugs and up a detached flake to an open hand jug (#3 Camalot) and up to a stance above the blocks and below a delicate dihedral with a small crack. Intricate slot/aręte/face climbing takes you to the top. It feels Jalapeńo spicy, but it could be more like Habanero?


Location 

This route climbs the overhanging, right-facing dihedral just left of Anthurium and to the right of Stay Hungry, topping out just light of the Anthurium anchors to a ledge.


Protection 

Gear: Standard Eldo rack including #1 and #2 Loweballs, micronuts.



Photos of Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) Slideshow Add Photo
Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
Ace of Spades FA, Hard Cor Photography.
Ace of Spades FA, Hard Cor Photography.
Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
Comments on Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) Add Comment
Show which comments
By g.miller
Apr 23, 2013

Nice work, Wayne! I looked at this a couple of years ago but never went back for the lead! Way to get after it on another, obvious, unclimbed line in Eldo!!
greg miller

By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Apr 23, 2013

Nice send, Wayne! And nice photos by Cory.

By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Apr 24, 2013

I remember you showing me that last winter. Way to go.

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
May 16, 2013

I was up at Peanuts the other day and found out that there is already an Eldo route named 'Ace of Spades' up there (doh!). So I had to rename this rig, so there you go.