Death By Pickies
|186 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 330 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||T. Bubb, J. Meir, 10/5/09|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Gets sun most of the day|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 5, 2009|
This route is a pretty good route with mostly very good rock. The name is not derived from any experience on the route, but rather from an experience on our misguided approach. Joseffa calls the little tiny round burrs that infest the East end of the South Face "pickies" as they require being picked from clothing, not just brushed off. There is however, a picky-free approach (see "location" section).
To climb this route, start by scrambling up 5 feet on some high angle blocks and ferns to a great pedestal.
P1 (5.9, 100'): Climb up directly above on a finger crack to a mantle on slopers, (5.9, not great rock) or head right into a low-angle corner for 5 meters, then slightly left to a short, right-facing off-width pod above a few very small cams placements. Stem up a few moves (crux, optional #4 Camalot) to reach a 1.5" -2" crack (excellent pro). Be sure to protect with long slings to avoid drag. There is a hidden 2-finger pocket inside the O.W. pod that keeps the grade reasonable and climbing secure. Pull over the bulge on a solid jam and jugs, wandering slightly left, then up for a ways to reach good pro behind a flake on a small ledge (long slings) before heading back right and onto a large ledge, perhaps 20 meters up. Belay here if you have drag, but it is better to continue to finish the pitch, as the following pitch is a full rope length. Continue by going up and left into a comfortable and fun slot/chimney with great rock, some reasonable protection, and good holds. Belay at a small stance 30 meters over the start of the climb. Gear for the belay was a red tricam, a 1.5" cam, and a #3 Camalot.
P2 (5.7, 230'): Continue up the slot, exiting up and right near the top of it. There is reasonable gear, but it might be difficult for a beginner to see and place. Up above the slot's end, continue up and left on a sloping ramp (4th class) that forms the shoulder of the formation to just below the summit. There are many options for sling belays over large secure horns, or for gear. Take a cordalette.
To descend, progress West to the standard short rap and rap South to a large evergreen. From the evergreen, rap south again to the ground from a sling and biner anchor. Feel free to replace the biners with steel links or rings. From the bottom of the second rap (the ground, thata is) looking up and just slightly right you will see an OW crack which is the top of 'Little Murders.'
WARNING: This rap is best with a 70m rope. On a 60m rope, some down-climbing would be required, and the more, the sketchier and more consequential. Despite how this looks, if you stay left on rap, the rope will pull quite easily!
Approximately 80 meters downhill of "Little Murders" and perhaps almost directly across the gap from the Maiden route "Dream Street Rose."
Approach via the Maiden and then walk North and slightly uphill from D.S.R. This will take ~1 hour in total, and completely avoids a terrible burr field.
The route can be recognized by a sloping ramp of large blocks below it, leading up to a short, low angle corner, and then over left to an offwidth pod. From downhill, one might see the fun East-facing slot/chimney that starts perhaps 20 meters up the route. Do not approach this route from the East. The infestation of burrs and raspberry bushes is sufficient to make it almost impassible. We were so covered in burrs that a change of clothing was required just to put on harnesses.
A standard light rack. One set of cams from tiny to #3 Camalot and a single set of nuts. Red tricam optional. I recommend long slings & 70m rope.