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Chocolate Wall
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Death by Chocolate 

Death by Chocolate 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,682
Submitted By: Lizzy Trower on Sep 26, 2007
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Death By Chocalate
Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

After pulling the initial roof via a balance-y move, continue sustained climbing on crimpy holds. The redpoint crux is surviving the pump to the top. The bolts are somewhat well-spaced for the typical Echo Cliff route.


Location 

The rightmost bolt line on the Chocolate Wall. Start by pulling the obvious initial roof. Rap off chain anchor.


Protection 

10 bolts, chain anchors



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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 4, 2012

Lizzy.....10 bolts? Are you including the anchor in your count? Should be 8 bolts. Could you also include the length of the route in the description?

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 13, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Great positioning. I thought the roof crux was pretty spooky. If that clipping jug goes while pulling up rope (and it WILL some day), the ground is going to feel pretty hard.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jan 25, 2013

Bobby Bensman claims there's no shame in using a stick clip. And she was once ranked 3rd among US women climbers behind Lynn Hill and Robyn Erbesfield. Lots of folks at Echo Cliffs (and Riverside Quarry & Smith Rock) carry them. Just ask someone if you don't have one.

By Will Cornell
Feb 24, 2014

This route is PUMPY. The first few moves are boulder-y, but after you make that second clip you're good.

By Phil Esra
Apr 14, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

A bit stout/sustained for Echo 10d. I'm going to call it 11a.