|The Main Amphitheater
Death and Taxes
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 115'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||JJ Schlick|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Page Views: ||1,291|
|Submitted By: ||JJ Schlick on Jun 15, 2009|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Dan Foster on sighting the second ascent of Death ...
Shares start with Could Be Worse. The only certainty is that you will get pumped. At the roof, move out right into very thin, scoop like dihedral. Follow this to the base of the overhanging column, passing interesting moves, thin gear, and 1 bolt up high before the break. Continue up the overhanging right side of column placing gear on the run, jamming, and jug hauling passing 3 bolts at the very top. Striking, delicate, and powerful.
Mid to left side of amphitheater. Look for a distinct overhanging column at 2/3 height with lines on either side. Death and Taxes takes the right hand side of the this formation.
You can place many 00 and 0 TCUs. As many as 4 each wouldn't hurt. A double set of other finger sized pieces. Small, medium, and large wires.
|Comments on Death and Taxes
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 13, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Excellent route! I think a double set of cams to 0.5 Camelot and wires will suffice for gear (at least it did for me). This route is every bit as good as its next door neighbor, Could be Worse. It is more straightforward at the steep finish. There is some really cool jamming in the flare. Between the well-placed bolts and the gear, this route is very safe and not scary. My greatest concern was keeping my rope from falling into the poison oak at the base. I spent sometime pruning today.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 7, 2013
I'll 2nd that doubles are fine, unless you want to sew up the easy slaby climbing down low.