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 ADVANCED
The Main Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
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Accidental Tourist, The 
Alligator Sex Farm 
Black and Tan 
Broken Chain 
Could Be Worse 
Counter Curse 
Dark and Stormy 
Dark Arts 
Darkest Hour 
Death and Taxes 
Fade To Black 
False Prophet 
Fierce Invalids 
Gemini Dragonfire 
Lakshmi Singh 
Logic Bomb 
Lord Humongous 
Pressure Drop 
Pyrokinesis 
Rough Around the Edges 
Speaking In Tongues 
Sphere of Influence 
There Will Be Blood 
Walking Far From Home 

Death and Taxes 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,322
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 15, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Dan Foster on sighting the second ascent of Death ...

Description 

In the middle of the Main Amphitheater is an eye snagging, overhanging column which boldly sticks out from the rest of the wall. I remember staring at this line for a long time before investigating further. However, alongside the few certainties of life, I knew this pitch was going to be stellar just by scoping it, and the end result was nothing short of that for the grade.

Shares start with Could Be Worse. At the roof, move out right into very thin, scoop like dihedral. Follow this to the base of the overhanging column, passing interesting moves, thin gear, and 1 bolt up high before the break. Continue up the overhanging right side of column placing gear on the run, jamming, and jug hauling passing 3 bolts at the very top. Striking, delicate, and powerful.


Location 

Mid to left side of amphitheater. Look for a distinct overhanging column at 2/3 height with lines on either side. Death and Taxes takes the right hand side of the this formation.


Protection 

You can place many 00 and 0 TCUs. As many as 4 each wouldn't hurt. A double set of other finger sized pieces. Small, medium, and large wires.



Photos of Death and Taxes Slideshow Add Photo
D. Bloom on Death & Taxes at The Waterfall.
D. Bloom on Death & Taxes at The Waterfall.
Danny dealing with the taxes section of the route...
Danny dealing with the taxes section of the route....
Dan Foster at the vertical crux.
Dan Foster at the vertical crux.
Comments on Death and Taxes Add Comment
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 13, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Excellent route! I think a double set of cams to 0.5 Camelot and wires will suffice for gear (at least it did for me). This route is every bit as good as its next door neighbor, Could be Worse. It is more straightforward at the steep finish. There is some really cool jamming in the flare. Between the well-placed bolts and the gear, this route is very safe and not scary. My greatest concern was keeping my rope from falling into the poison oak at the base. I spent sometime pruning today.

By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 7, 2013

I'll 2nd that doubles are fine, unless you want to sew up the easy slaby climbing down low.