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 ADVANCED
The Main Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accidental Tourist, The T 
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 
Black and Tan T 
Broken Chain T 
Could Be Worse T 
Counter Curse T 
Dark and Stormy T 
Dark Arts T 
Darkest Hour T 
Death and Taxes T 
Fade To Black T 
False Prophet T 
Fierce Invalids T 
Gemini Dragonfire T 
Lakshmi Singh T 
Logic Bomb T,S 
Lord Humongous T 
Pressure Drop T,S 
Pyrokinesis T 
Rough Around the Edges T 
Speaking In Tongues T 
Sphere of Influence T 
There Will Be Blood T 
Walking Far From Home T 

Death and Taxes 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,387
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Dan Foster onsighting the second ascent of Death a...

Description 

In the middle of the Main Amphitheater is an eye snagging, overhanging column which boldly sticks out from the rest of the wall. I remember staring at this line for a long time before investigating further. However, alongside the few certainties of life, I knew this pitch was going to be stellar just by scoping it, and the end result was nothing short of that for the grade.

Shares start with Could Be Worse. At the roof, move out right into very thin, scoop like dihedral. Stem up this thin gear section passing a .10+ mini crux with a hidden pocket, and a lone bolt. A good shake at the base of the overhanging column gives one time to regroup, and eye down the steepness above.

Continue up the overhanging right side of column placing great gear on the run, jamming, and jug hauling passing 3 bolts at the very top. Striking, delicate, and powerful. Maybe the best .11+ route in the Main Amphitheater.

Location 

Mid to left side of amphitheater. Look for a distinct overhanging column at 2/3 height with lines on either side. Death and Taxes takes the right hand side of the this formation.

Protection 

You can place many 00 and 0 TCUs. As many as 4 each wouldn't hurt. A double set of other finger sized pieces. Small, medium, and large wires.


Photos of Death and Taxes Slideshow Add Photo
D. Bloom on Death & Taxes at The Waterfall.
D. Bloom on Death & Taxes at The Waterfall.
Danny dealing with the taxes section of the route...
Danny dealing with the taxes section of the route....
Dan Foster at the vertical crux.
Dan Foster at the vertical crux.

Comments on Death and Taxes Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 13, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Excellent route! I think a double set of cams to 0.5 Camelot and wires will suffice for gear (at least it did for me). This route is every bit as good as its next door neighbor, Could be Worse. It is more straightforward at the steep finish. There is some really cool jamming in the flare. Between the well-placed bolts and the gear, this route is very safe and not scary. My greatest concern was keeping my rope from falling into the poison oak at the base. I spent sometime pruning today.
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 7, 2013

I'll 2nd that doubles are fine, unless you want to sew up the easy slaby climbing down low.