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Joe Leonhard half way done and starting the crux.
This route, and its neighbors to the climber's left, are rather steep. The characteristics of rock differs from other areas in the Palace, as it is smoother and featured primarily by crack systems.
The route starts just left of Gossip Column, following the arete for 10 feet or so before moving out left. Follow the crack systems up from there.
Follow the Cedar Creek trail past the mine shaft. The route is in the narrow gully to the right. Dear Slabby is the first route, closest to the arete.
John Kruickshank leading Dear Slabby.
|By Spencer Anderson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 30, 2007
The best route that I've done at the Palace thus far. Fun.
|By Joe Leonhard|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 5, 2007
Don't miss the bomber hand jams near the top. They are a welcome change from the taxing face moves on the rest of the route!
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 6, 2007
One of the best routes at the Palace that I have done. If you know how to jam, the route will feel easy for 5.11b.
|By Fleetwood Matt|
Nov 6, 2007
A great route with good varied climbing. It would be much more rewarding, albeit still safe if it were a mixed pro route with say only three bolts plus cams.
|By A. Wolaver|
From: Golden, CO
May 11, 2008
Possibly my very favorite single pitch sport route to date. I feel, even knowing how to jam, that early .11 is a good old school rating for the route. The second quarter of the route includes strong crimp moves, strange off finger size jams, and laybackish moves.
Apr 28, 2009
My favorite route at The Palace. I ended up coming back and doing it with pro and clipping some of the bolts just to be safe and it was sooo much more fun! Definitely recommend this route!
|By Paul Carlson|
From: laramie, wyoming
Oct 24, 2009
Awesome route with hand and finger jams, lie backs, face climbing, and traversing. Watch out for loose rock in left crack near top!
|By Grant Gerhard|
From: Fort collins co
Oct 22, 2010
Second Paul's comment on rockfall, also somewhat tentative belay is required on getting to the 4th/5th bolts, as jagged rocks are below and the the left.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Oct 31, 2010
Definitely fun climbing, but this has to be docked a star because of the ramp on the left, which is both dangerous and tempting to step onto for a rest after the first crux.
My partner and I both thought this climb was no harder than Monstrosity (5.10b!), a combination of that climb being under-graded and this one over-graded. As people have said, this one is much easier if you have good hand and toe jamming skills.
Jan 29, 2012
Fantastic route, one of the finest of the grade at Palace. As for rockfall, as long as your leader stays on route it feels pretty clean, and not sure if it's been retrobolted at all, but the falls are very tidy and don't really seem to risk striking the lower flake at any point. But that's me.
|By Nick Barczak|
Jan 22, 2013
Very fun route! Feels soft for 5.11b.