Dean's Day Off  5.12a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Henry Barber, Steve Shea, belayed by a young Pat Adams Submitted By:  Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is a historically proud ascent.... Aren't all of his routes, though? One of the state's classic must-do single pitches at the grade.

Barefoot and with only funky nuts!! Oh, and a solid wit and BIG balls!

With sticky rubber shoes, it's still a challenge, but modern gear makes it much safer, for sure.

I wish I could give it the full 4 stars it deserves. Its only blight (unless I didn't follow the FFA true line) is the rotten chimney for the 1st 1/3 of its length. Perhaps Henry followed the face to its left, but I entered the nasty (but easy) chimney.

Exit to a smooth section of slab and thin crack. Place small but good brass action and tiptoe up a 5.11 balance crux with a slight runout. The wall steepens considerably here, and the crack widens to accept fingers. Get good gear of TCU/Alien and power up with cool layaways and jams and crimps and don't stop till you get to the top. A two bolt rap anchor is at a distance of 35M from the ground.

The upper 2/3rds of the route is very classic and truly inspiring to know in what style it went up!!

Protection 

Brass nuts (2-4 RP type sizes), a few sm/med wired nuts, #0-3 TCU size cams will sew up the crux headwall, a couple larger cams, 70m! rope.