Dean's Day Off
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This is a historically proud ascent.... Aren't all of his routes, though? It is one of the state's classic, must-do, single pitches at the grade.
Barefoot and with only funky nuts!! Oh, and a solid wit and BIG balls!
With sticky rubber shoes, it's still a challenge, but modern gear makes it much safer, for sure.
I wish I could give it the full 4 stars it deserves. Its only blight (unless I didn't follow the FFA true line) is the rotten chimney for the 1st 1/3 of its length. Perhaps Henry followed the face to its left, but I entered the nasty (but easy) chimney.
Exit to a smooth section of slab and thin crack. Place small but good brass action, and tiptoe up a 5.11 balance crux with a slight runout. The wall steepens considerably here, and the crack widens to accept fingers. Get good gear of TCU/Alien, power up with cool layaways and jams and crimps, and don't stop till you get to the top. A two bolt rap anchor is at a distance of 35m from the ground.
The upper 2/3rds of the route is very classic and truly inspiring to know in what style it went up!!
Brass nuts (2-4 RP type sizes), a few sm/med wired nuts, #0-3 TCU size cams will sew up the crux headwall, a couple larger cams, 70m! rope.
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2007
The route was very clean, except for the dirty chimney, when I did it 7 or 8 years ago.
By steve shea
Jun 17, 2011
Wrong again. Henry lead it barefoot with Steve Shea second and Pat Adams third. We all climbed the chimney. It was an old aid climb. The chimney is not that bad! SS BTW Henry used small wires and a crack n up or two.
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Almost onsighted this the other day. What a mental ride! Can't believe I bungled the move pulling onto the easy slab at the top! The runout getting to the upper crack is no joke, and it's a good 12 feet above a series of placements that are very small or marginal. Barber is da man.