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Horseshoe Wall
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DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) T 
Dogma T,S 
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Lady Wilson's Cleavage T 
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Sentimental Journey T 

DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 12 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Larry DeAngelo, Karsten Duncan - Sept 29, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,335
Submitted By: Karsten on Oct 19, 2007

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Where's the beer? Larry DeAngelo tops out another ...

Description 

This is a true adventure climb. Destined to be another seldom repeated Wilson route, this climb has a little of everything. Generally the climbing is on good rock but sometimes with sparse protection. A variety of skills from routefinding to OW to scary face are necessary for this route.

Pitches 1-4:
Begin up a pleasant crack on good rock. Continue up past a bush and generally in or around the crack for 400ft. As the crack plays out trend left over onto a sloped ledge. 4th to 5.7

Pitch 5:
Continue climbing 200ft up thin cracks and face to the left of a wide dihedral. The climbing is 5.8+ with tricky protection and runnouts. 5.8+

Pitch 6:
Move up until the buttress comes to a point and belay on a nice ledge around the corner on the right. 5.8

Pitch 7:
Move back left to the crack and continue up it for a short way until reaching easier ground. Watch rope drag on this one. 5.8

Pitch 8:
Above climb the arete past large blocks and over a spectacularly exposed grand roof on its left side. Belay on top of buttress. 5.9

Pitch 9:
Move down and left into the gulley and up the gulley into the thicket of brush. 5.6

Pitch 10:
Scramble through the brush to the main face (same face as Lady Wilson) and the obvious large chimney. 4th class

Pitch 11:
Climb up a short offwidth on the left wall of the chimney to reach a ledge and then move back right to get back to the chimney above. Continue climbing up the dirty chimney until a crack angling rightward out of the chimney can be taken. Continue up this crack system to a good belay stance in a small corner. 190ft 5.10

Pitch 12:
Move up the corner using multiple cracks and then exit out on face holds and sketchy to no protection to traverse up and back left to the main crack and belay from a tree in the crack. 190ft 5.10+

Pitch 13
Climb the squeeze chimney up and into the upper wide mouth gulley above. 5.8

From here follow the gulley to the summit with a few 4th class moves and using a fixed rope. Be careful as there are alot of loose things up here.

Location 

Approach:
Approach as for Lady Wilson's cleavage in the Larry's Red Rock Odyssey Guide. Break off left until you see a wide chimney/slot. The climb begins on a nice 4" crack to the right of the slot.

Descent:
The fastest descent is down the slabs into first creek. Generally stay left as you head down the slabs. The slabs will funnel you down to a dropoff with a large dead tree at its bottom. Traverse around this on the right and continue in the gulley. Generally continue to stay to the left here find an unlikely descent down a red tongue of rock jutting westward from the main wall. Continue out the first creek gulley.

Protection 

RP's to new #4 camalot. All anchors are natural.


Photos of DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) Slideshow Add Photo
Larry DeAngelo climbing high on the route
Larry DeAngelo climbing high on the route
Karsten is casual as he gears up for the crux pitc...
Karsten is casual as he gears up for the crux pitc...
Low on the route, climbing the face next to the ch...
Low on the route, climbing the face next to the ch...
Larry DeAngelo climbing one of the nice face pitch...
Larry DeAngelo climbing one of the nice face pitch...
A topo from Larry's Red Rock Odyssey for the appro...
A topo from Larry's Red Rock Odyssey for the appro...
Double DD
BETA PHOTO: Double DD
Pitch 5 has some nice face climbing.
Pitch 5 has some nice face climbing.
The slabs descent
The slabs descent
The start of the crux pitch looks innocent enough....
The start of the crux pitch looks innocent enough....

Comments on DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) Add Comment
Show which comments
By clustiere
Feb 3, 2008

Larry is this route close to the Brenan route to the left of Lady Wilson...
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 4, 2008

You're speaking of the "Son of Wilson" route. I'm not sure exactly where that is, but I think it is quite a ways down and left from this area. Need to do more scouting. . .
By phil broscovak
Feb 27, 2008

Wow Larry & Karsten this looks like great good adventure. But isn't this route and Lady Wilson's Cleavage on the Cleavage Wall not the Horseshoe Wall?
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 27, 2008

Right again, Phil-- but despite its size there is not enough on the Lady Wilson Wall to merit its own area (not yet at least). Once a few more things get done, I'll enter a new wall and separate the routes into more localized areas.