This is a true adventure climb. Destined to be another seldom repeated Wilson route, this climb has a little of everything. Generally the climbing is on good rock but sometimes with sparse protection. A variety of skills from routefinding to OW to scary face are necessary for this route.
Begin up a pleasant crack on good rock. Continue up past a bush and generally in or around the crack for 400ft. As the crack plays out trend left over onto a sloped ledge. 4th to 5.7
Continue climbing 200ft up thin cracks and face to the left of a wide dihedral. The climbing is 5.8+ with tricky protection and runnouts. 5.8+
Move up until the buttress comes to a point and belay on a nice ledge around the corner on the right. 5.8
Move back left to the crack and continue up it for a short way until reaching easier ground. Watch rope drag on this one. 5.8
Above climb the arete past large blocks and over a spectacularly exposed grand roof on its left side. Belay on top of buttress. 5.9
Move down and left into the gulley and up the gulley into the thicket of brush. 5.6
Scramble through the brush to the main face (same face as Lady Wilson) and the obvious large chimney. 4th class
Climb up a short offwidth on the left wall of the chimney to reach a ledge and then move back right to get back to the chimney above. Continue climbing up the dirty chimney until a crack angling rightward out of the chimney can be taken. Continue up this crack system to a good belay stance in a small corner. 190ft 5.10
Move up the corner using multiple cracks and then exit out on face holds and sketchy to no protection to traverse up and back left to the main crack and belay from a tree in the crack. 190ft 5.10+
Climb the squeeze chimney up and into the upper wide mouth gulley above. 5.8
From here follow the gulley to the summit with a few 4th class moves and using a fixed rope. Be careful as there are alot of loose things up here.
Approach as for Lady Wilson's cleavage in the Larry's Red Rock Odyssey Guide. Break off left until you see a wide chimney/slot. The climb begins on a nice 4" crack to the right of the slot.
The fastest descent is down the slabs into first creek. Generally stay left as you head down the slabs. The slabs will funnel you down to a dropoff with a large dead tree at its bottom. Traverse around this on the right and continue in the gulley. Generally continue to stay to the left here find an unlikely descent down a red tongue of rock jutting westward from the main wall. Continue out the first creek gulley.
RP's to new #4 camalot. All anchors are natural.
|Comments on DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D)
Feb 3, 2008
Larry is this route close to the Brenan route to the left of Lady Wilson...
|By Larry DeAngelo|
Feb 4, 2008
You're speaking of the "Son of Wilson" route. I'm not sure exactly where that is, but I think it is quite a ways down and left from this area. Need to do more scouting. . .
|By phil broscovak|
Feb 27, 2008
Wow Larry & Karsten this looks like great good adventure. But isn't this route and Lady Wilson's Cleavage on the Cleavage Wall not the Horseshoe Wall?
|By Larry DeAngelo|
Feb 27, 2008
Right again, Phil-- but despite its size there is not enough on the Lady Wilson Wall to merit its own area (not yet at least). Once a few more things get done, I'll enter a new wall and separate the routes into more localized areas.