The Deadwood Crag is just before the Glass Ocean Wall and shares similar characteristics with it. The crag has been cleanup but could use some more hold cleaning.
There is one set of anchors at the top of Custer's Cutoff which can easily be rapped with a 50m rope. From the top of Deadwood one can walk south and up the ledges and arrive near the base of Glass Ocean.
Same approach as for Glass Ocean. If hiking on the east side trail as it emerges into the finial talus field before Glass Ocean look to the west. If hiking on the west side through the bushes look for the ramp that is the start to the most of the climbs.
Like any cutoff route taking it will lead to an easier passage but getting there may be fraught danger. This route is no different.Boulder up the ramp to a shallow weakness in the headwall. The headwall is the crux (5.10) as there is scant pro albeit a small TCU placement along a vertical flake midway up. If you blow it, good chance that the landing on the ramp below will be hard. At the top one can reach a bomber crack that takes good pro. Use a long sling as the route now cuts off to the righ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT