Deadwood 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | David and Dee Tvedt, August 2004 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | David Tvedt on Apr 4, 2006 |
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Description This somewhat uninspiring looking line has continuously challenging and interesting moves. The crux for most people is likely to be the final bulge move before the anchors. A small roof/bulge move 1/3rd up may be the crux for others. The rock is a little gritty at the start of the route but is good the rest of the way. Deadwood had a large variety of fun moves. The climbing reminds me somewhat of some of the routes at Lover's Leap (CA).
Location Deadwood is about 50' down from Crimson Arete. The route starts in an inset bordered by 2 seams/cracks with a small roof above. Its on the north side of the East Face notch and gets late afternoon shade.
Protection Gear to 3 1/2". Optional O.W. cams (up to largest B.D. or W.C.) can be helpful but aren't necessary to safely protect the route(there are no O.W. moves on it). This route requires a mild amount of creative gear placement and probably isn't a good beginner lead. Rap anchors at the top.
By Jeff Ehman
Sep 29, 2008
| I agree with the following statement in the "Protection" section of the posted description: "This route requires a mild amount of creative gear placement and probably isn't a good beginner lead." If I remember correctly, there was a ~10-12ft section just before the anchors with no pro and some scaly rock. Given the gradings of other routes in the area, and my agreement that the crux (psychological, at least) is at the top, I would consider adding an "R" to the grade. It would not be a pretty ~25ft fall into that slot.
With that said, it was an interesting route. Approaching the top I actually traversed right, then up and back left to the anchors (yes, putting myself in a position for a much dangerous fall!). Along with pro, there did not appear to be much in the way of solid holds straight up to the anchors.
My first time to a great area. Thanks to all who are responsible for the seemingly solid bolts and anchors! |
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