Deadwater  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  10,686. Good page?    Administrators:  Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Chris Duca on May 28, 2009 Make this area a Favorite What's New  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon 75° | 46° 50° | 39° 52° | 36° 55° | 32° 61° | 36°

Adk feel on the approach

Description 

Deadwater is a somewhat sleepy crag discovered in 2001 by local guide, Ed Palen. The cliff holds a very nice selection of routes mainly in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. The crag consists of three distinct walls: The left end, main cliff, and right end. The climbing here varies from vertical to overhanging face-climbing to technical crack and corner climbs. All routes protect wonderfully, and, thanks to the steadfast efforts by the progenitors of this cliff, each route is equipped with its own anchor. Despite the existence of anchors atop each route, it is nearly impossible to get to the top of the cliff without leading a route. Therefore, THIS IS NOT A TOP-ROPING AREA.

Area highlights include "Bozeman Bullet" (5.6), "Space Cowboy" (5.7), "Tombstone" (5.10a), and "Reach For The Sky" (5.10b).

Much effort has been made to keep erosion at bay. Steps and terraces have been built, and careful trail maintenance will hopefully keep the impact of increased traffic to a minimum. With the exception of the large terrace below the "Space Cowboy" corner, most of the cliff base has the tendancy to get cramped, so please be courteous and thoughtful of others. Enjoy this hidden gem, and please leave it as you found it.

Getting There 

About 1.3 miles south of I-87 exit 30 on Route 9 is a large pullout on the east (left) side of the road. Park here, cross the road, and head north on the shoulder until a small, but very distinct trail leaves the shoulder of the road and heads into the woods. Follow the trail through a very nice birch and pine forest for about 5 minutes until you reach the cliff.

The main cliff and right end are accessed by way of this main trail, while the left end follows a faint, often overlooked trail that leaves the main trail about midway to the cliff at a felled birch tree.

The Classics

Featured Route For Deadwater

Bozeman Bullet 5.6  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Main Cliff

The face that makes up the left wall of the large, right-facing corner of "Space Cowboy"....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY