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Deadwater

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Right End 

Deadwater 


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Page Views: 13,854
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
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Description 

Deadwater is a somewhat sleepy crag discovered in 2001 by local guide, Ed Palen. The cliff holds a very nice selection of routes mainly in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. The crag consists of three distinct walls: The left end, main cliff, and right end. The climbing here varies from vertical to overhanging face-climbing to technical crack and corner climbs. All routes protect wonderfully, and, thanks to the steadfast efforts by the progenitors of this cliff, each route is equipped with its own anchor. Despite the existence of anchors atop each route, it is nearly impossible to get to the top of the cliff without leading a route. Therefore, THIS IS NOT A TOP-ROPING AREA.

Area highlights include "Bozeman Bullet" (5.6), "Space Cowboy" (5.7), "Tombstone" (5.10a), and "Reach For The Sky" (5.10b).

Much effort has been made to keep erosion at bay. Steps and terraces have been built, and careful trail maintenance will hopefully keep the impact of increased traffic to a minimum. With the exception of the large terrace below the "Space Cowboy" corner, most of the cliff base has the tendancy to get cramped, so please be courteous and thoughtful of others. Enjoy this hidden gem, and please leave it as you found it.


Getting There 

About 1.3 miles south of I-87 exit 30 on Route 9 is a large pullout on the east (left) side of the road. Park here, cross the road, and head north on the shoulder until a small, but very distinct trail leaves the shoulder of the road and heads into the woods. Follow the trail through a very nice birch and pine forest for about 5 minutes until you reach the cliff.

The main cliff and right end are accessed by way of this main trail, while the left end follows a faint, often overlooked trail that leaves the main trail about midway to the cliff at a felled birch tree.


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Deadwater:
Bozeman Bullet   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Cliff
Dig It   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 60'   Left End
Space Cowboy   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Cliff
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Cliff
Incognito   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Left End
Geronimo   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Cliff
Warpath   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   Main Cliff
Sundance   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Main Cliff
Tombstone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Main Cliff
Desperado   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Cliff
Reach For The Sky   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Right End
Bandito   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 60'   Main Cliff
WISWIG   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Left End
Browse More Classics in Deadwater

Featured Route For Deadwater
Rhiannon enjoying the featured face of Bozeman Bullet. <br /> <br />Photo by, Ethan Thompson

Bozeman Bullet 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Main Cliff
The face that makes up the left wall of the large, right-facing corner of "Space Cowboy"....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Deadwater Slideshow Add Photo
Watch out for these on the road!  We saw a couple live ones and at least 1 crushed one.
BETA PHOTO: Watch out for these on the road! We saw a couple ...
Comments on Deadwater Add Comment
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By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 26, 2012

Everywhere else i looked at in chapel pond pass was totally soaked from rain last night and overcast drizzle today. Deadwater was almost totally dry! Made our day today.