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Redgarden - Tower One
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Deadpoint 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: T. Bubb & J. Meir 6/13/04 (followed french free)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 13, 2004
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  • Description 

    This route starts as for Fresh Garbage and follows that line for 1/3-1/2 of its length before diverging for ~70' of independent climbing. From the Redgarden trail it will be easy enough to pick out the climb Fresh Garbage from the addition to this site. To the left side of said wall, you will see a chimney/trough running up the upper half, and a blunt rib of rock just to its right. Harder to see will be the narrow, overhanging, black section of rock below the rib. A "first knuckle" fingercrack splits this steep black section.

    Climb Fresh Garbage to reach this black face & crack- this is 'Deadpoint.' Climb the fingercrack (crux, small cams) to a bad jam and then some sidepulls (bad feet) to get established above. This is somewhere between 5.10d and 5.12a, but I don't know where. Maybe I missed a sequence, but I am guessing 5.11, my partner declined to estimate a grade. Continue up the blunt arete/rib of rock until near the top of the cliff, then step hard right to belay at a tree.

    The moves required to free this are difficult and off of thin fingerlocks with bad feet. Please contact me if you repeat this route.


    Protection 

    One set of nuts, and cams to 4". The crux requires a few extra cams in the .3-.6 range and a 2" cam. Save them or take extras.



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