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A long standing unfreed super classic 3 pitch route that was finally cleaned up, retro-fitted and freed this summer (2007).
p1: 11b. Use any technique in the book to climb the dihedral for 35m to the bolted belay. Many small cams and wires, but there are good rests, hang in there!
p2: 12b 10m. Clip the bolt above the belay and figure out the short but vicious crux, followed by a beautiful thin finger crack to the 2 bolt belay.
p3: 12a 20m. Follow the impeccable dihedral to its end, then undercling and traverse left to the anchor. Clip the bolt and call upon the onsight gods to figure out the mystery finish move to the bolted belay.
2 35m raps get you back to your backpacks.
The Dihedrals area to the left of Freeway and the right of Arrowroot and Millenium Falcon. There should be a fixed line to pull up to a stance below a 40m x 1m wide dihedral with a thin crack.
RPs x 2, Small wires x 2, Double set of cams from grey tcu to .75 camalot, one each #1, 2 and 3 camalot. Dozen draws and runners (for the many small wires!)
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Aug 12, 2013
This could use a good cleaning. Went up to try it and P1 was covered in moss, dirt and pine needles. We bailed.
The fixed line to the base is also gone.
|By Brette Harrington|
Jun 28, 2014
Come climb this beautiful route, we've retro cleaned it to rid away with all of the jumping bugs and spidery moss that have been infesting the small finger pockets.
Pitch one is a quality test piece for the 11 a grade. Be sure to have a through set of rps- the placements are all there, but you best be on your game because it's challenging both mentally and technically. Near the top there is a move out right over the arÍte on a small edge, then slip back into the crack to finish.
Pitch 2 and 3 are clean as well so give it a go!