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The Dead Snag
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Steorts' Ridge T 

Dead Snag Direttissima 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,900
Submitted By: RKM on Oct 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Summit belay and relationship with Steorts Ridge l...


"I wish some day to make a route, and from the summit let fall a drop of water, and this is where my route will have gone" -- Emilio Comici

Is this route contrived? Yes!

Is this route squeezed? Yes!

Is this route really, really fun? Yes!

Of all the expanse of rock and places to climb on the Dead Snag, this stretch contains some of the best rock, most improbable moves (that are pretty easy) and highest angle of climbing.

Two 100+ pitches with a stance belay in the middle. This might share space with Tigers Den?

I found this route while adventure soloing. Kept climbing higher and higher thinking it would get ugly and I could traverse off. Never got hard, never traversed off - so - I came back with my son and lead it as a 'sort of' real climb.


This fun route starts about 50' uphill from Steorts Ridge staging area. The beginning is a small vertical knife blade crack - just left of a big flake and block.

Step back from the start and draw an imaginary straight line up to the big diving board block on the top that overhangs the face (this block is about 20' left of the top out of Steorts).

Follow this exact line - not varying more than 5' to the left or the right.


Small wired stoppers (DMM peanuts work the best).

Photos of Dead Snag Direttissima Slideshow Add Photo
The start of this contrived route is the thin crac...
BETA PHOTO: The start of this contrived route is the thin crac...
Most of the route.  Summit block.  The hanging ver...
Most of the route. Summit block. The hanging ver...
Yeah, its a family affair.  Suzette Miller Baird (...
Yeah, its a family affair. Suzette Miller Baird (...

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By Brian in SLC
Oct 24, 2011

Never really figured out where Tiger's Den is...but...have climbed that slanting crack that comes in to the left of your Direttissima and crosses through it, looking for bolts/pins. Neat terrain and great rock! Well done!
By grk10vq
Oct 24, 2011

looks like fun, thanks for pointing this out.
By bsmoot
Apr 4, 2015

Excellent moderate route with surprisingly good protection. Cracks seem to appear out of nowhere. If you wander slightly, you can ease the rating down a bit.
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