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Dead Sea Equestrian 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg8/00
Page Views: 1,262
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 29, 2007

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Description 

Almost always wet but for a short window of time in the late summer early fall this is quite a fun climb.Due to the wetness it can be a bit vegetated when it hasn't seen much action in a while. In the winter it is a really cool ice climb called Franky Lee.

Follow flakes using a bunch of layback moves with nice jugs between. Good footwork will pay off if this route is at your limit. If it was always dry I'd give it another star for sure.

Apparently when Jim bolted this line he had ice in mind as much as rock.


Location 

Left of Rea Sea Pedestrian (5.10b). the route follows big flakes up a typically wet (sometimes a waterfall) section of rock.


Protection 

8 bolts to anchor.



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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 29, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I've only ever done this climb when it is dry, and it is great for sure, but truly what Lee said this climb isn't frequently dry, how unfortunate.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 3, 2009

Dead Sea?

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Jeff,

Jim is Hebrew and Moses (a Hebrew) parted and walked across the Red Sea while running away from an army, he let the sea collapse on his suitors killing them, this resulted in the neighboring route named Red Sea Pedestrian and I think this is just a play on words of his...

I will ask him sometime what it means if anything special

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 30, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I did this route today while there was a waterfall going over this route, it was fun but made it exciting for a 5.7. get on tis no matter what

By J Meagher
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome route with nice big moves between huge flakes and jugs. Definently feels 5.7ish until the last bolt, which I found to be around 5.8, high, and extremely awkward to get a draw into. I ended up having to lower off and my partner (who has about one foot reach more than me) was able to finish it. Despite the dirty and sometimes wet appearance, this is definently well worth your time to do. However, if you are short and 5.7 is not well within your limit, consider having a taller partner leave a pre-hung draw in the last bolt.

I did notice that about half of the bolts were slightly loose and moved around a bit when i clipped them. If a bolt hangar moves around a little is it still likely to hold you in a fall, or should it be expected to fail?

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 24, 2012

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 24, 2012

Quite the hero loop, especially for barefooting!

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 24, 2012

The camera angle makes it more dramatic, but we talked about the slack. :)