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Dead Precedents 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 145'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: SA, Scott Drawz, Eric Wilson
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
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Description 

This route starts 15 feet right of Flexible Flyer in the somewhat unobvious crack system located a few feet right of a prominent right-leaning weakness bearing a strange column-like pillar. This start ascends the initial left-facing corners that lead to a straight up finger crack. The easier 5.10- version of the first pitch is very good, and would be worth leading as a stand-alone route, if the second pitch roof crux (5.10+) were deemed too difficult. This route has been lead as one pitch (using both variants on the first pitch) and is a superb rope-length of climbing. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 – Scramble up the 3rd class slabs to the horizontal crack that marks the steeper climbing above. A 3.5 Camalot in this horizontal protects the stand-up to locate the excellent large stopper placement found up and right. Continue past a series of small roofs, and up to the obvious fingercrack and finally on to a stance. Two weaknesses are visible above, this route ascends the left one (the right one eventually becomes Digital Alarm.) Continue up the crack to a choice at the next prominent roof. The 5.10- finish protects with TCU’s out left under the roof, then steps left and up through the roof to the obvious crack above. The 5.11- original finish continues up and right from the prominent roof to a second roof with a fixed pin. Turning this roof is then the crux of the pitch. Either finish leads to the anchors at a small ledge. Pro to 3½”, 95 feet. (SA, SD, 10- finish; SA, 11- finish)

Variation – An easier alternate start begins at the weakness formed by the meeting of the steeper slab to the left with the lower angled 3rd class slab to the right. Climb up the easy weakness to the steep wall above, looking for the strange, 10-foot tall column-like pillar in the obvious crack above. Although this delicate feature is safe to climb past, it is recommended that protection be placed in the cracks to the right of the column. This crack system joins up with the regular start 10 feet above the column.

Pitch 2 – Climb straight up past the first small ledge to a second ledge. Traverse left to the Sloth weakness. Climb this past the point where Sloth traverses left, and move up to a fixed pin. Continue up, using a hollow but safe feature that meets the large roof. It is recommended that no protection be placed in this hollow feature, as the pin is good, the moves are moderate, and the bolt in the roof is only 7 feet above. Fun, athletic moves out the roof pass a second bolt (5.10+), then easy climbing to the anchors. 2 bolts, 1 pin, pro to 1½”, 50 feet.


Protection 

2 bolts, 1 piton, pro to 3.5", anchors


location 

Just left of the start of Digital Alarm (see Squeezing the Lemmon.)



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