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The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The 
Backflip 
Bellyflop 
Between The Sheets 
Bookmark OW 
Cave Route 
Coleman's Complex 
Crack of No Return 
Dead in Bed 
East Side 
Fall Out 
Fantasy Ridge 
Goose, The 
Inside Straight 
Joy and Tribulation 
Klingon (with direct start) 
Manhole Cover 
Marginal Line 
Original Fantasy Ridge 
Penis Chimney 
Plan A 
Rhythm Method 
Romulan Territory 
Screamin' Eagles 
Seams Like A Dream 
Sojourn 
Son of a Pitch 
Star Trek 
Time Machine 
Twiggy's Crack 
Virgin Spring 
Wigglin' Fingies 
Unsorted Routes:

Dead in Bed 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: W. Spaller on Jul 21, 2012
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Description 

This is a very fun 4 pitch route on the west face of the Bookmark.

Pitch 1. Start with the first pitch of Fantasy Ridge, the left leaning hand and fist crack. Belay below a large flake.(~70ft).

Pitch 2. Continue up the left leaning dual cracks (2nd pitch of Sidewinder). At the top of the dual cracks head up and a little right up a 5.8 hand crack. Belay on a large ledge with a large horn on its right side. (~160ft)

Pitch 3. Crux pitch. Locate the thin crack directly above the ledge. It just to the right of a large left facing dihedral. Climb up the thin crack to a horizontal break and then traverse left to a hand/fist crack and belay there. Felt similar to but slightly easier than Thindependence (10b, ~70ft).

Pitch 4. Climb the hand/fist crack to the top (5.9, ~120ft)


Location 

West face of the Bookmark. Same location at Fantasy Ridge.


Protection 

SR with a #4 for the pitch #4 fist crack and a few extra small stoppers for the crux.



Photos of Dead in Bed Slideshow Add Photo
Will following the third pitch.
Will following the third pitch.
1st pitch.
1st pitch.
Climb that thin crack in the middle to the horizontal crack.  Then take a hard left to a stance.  Two .10 cruxes on this pitch.  A green Camalot fits nicely in the blind placement.  You will know the blind placement when you get there.
Climb that thin crack in the middle to the horizon...
Second pitch.  Follow the bushes then the path of least resistance to a big ledge.
Second pitch. Follow the bushes then the path of ...
Follow the nice hand, to fist to slightly offwidth crack.  Then take the path of least resistance to the top.
Follow the nice hand, to fist to slightly offwidth...
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