Most people feel that the crux is between the second and third bolt. After the first three bolts the angle and climbing ease considerably, although, the climbing is still fun after the third bolt. Good, fun route. I felt the route was a bit easier than the rating it has been given. Best of the two routes on the wall. This one starts out very steep and then eases up. It is the leftmost route (northern most route) on the upper ambush wall.
Follow the directions to ambush wall. As you are facing the lower ambush wall walk up and left. You will pass a steep 5.11d on your right as you walk up past the ambush wall. Continue on up the short but steep trail until the upper wall becomes visible on the hikers right. You cant miss the orangish-tan formation of the cliffs.
Standard rack of quickdraws will suffice. Ends at chains. Well protected climbing.
|By Luke Douglas|
Jul 21, 2007
FA Greg Martinez, John Starr 11/08/06
|By McRae Williams|
Jun 1, 2008
This is a very exciting yet slightly short route. The crux is pulling the first roof and the climbing is mellow and fun after that. I agree that it is a little easier than .10+ but still a great climb.
|By Mark Lewis|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
More enjoyable moves on this route for me than Boiler Maker to the right. There is one bolt placement which seems funky; on a jug type hold that sticks out from the surrounding rock. It just seems like the rock it's placed on could break off given a hard lead fall and it appears there are more secure places to sink this bolt. Fun route, enjoyed it!
|By Charlie S|
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Fun, but soft rating. Would be a "Gunks" 5.7.